Aomori Winter Travel: Hakkoda Snow Trees, Hirosaki Castle & Lake Towada

The Charm of Aomori in Winter

"Winter in Aomori is just cold, right?" If that is what you think, you are seriously mistaken. Winter in Aomori is truly a "white paradise," where breathtaking scenery of a beauty unmatched anywhere in the Japanese archipelago appears one after another. The artistry of frost-covered trees born from the freezing cold, fantastical castles glowing in the light of the snow, a sea of illumination spreading across the lakeshore—here is a special Aomori found only in winter, an experience no other season can offer.

In fact, the greatest charm of a winter trip to Aomori lies in "beauty that is born precisely because of the extreme cold." The sculptural forms of frost-covered trees nurtured by a sub-zero world, flames of light made to glow against the white canvas of snow, illumination reflected on a lake surface wrapped in silence—these are all miraculous landscapes that can only exist because of the harshness of winter. Bundle up well and dive into this gleaming white world. You will not think "It was cold, but I'm glad I came"; instead, you will feel that "the cold itself was part of the journey." Surely you will want to come again—no, you will find yourself unable to stay away. That kind of winter trip awaits you in Aomori.

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Mount Hakkoda Frost-Covered Trees (Juhyo)

When speaking of Aomori in winter, the frost-covered trees of Mount Hakkoda simply cannot be left out. The countless frost-covered trees spreading across the mountainside at an elevation of about 1,300 meters are known locally as "snow monsters," and their overwhelming power is something you will never forget once you have seen it. As the trees are continuously exposed to ferocious sub-zero wind and snow, ice and snow pile up in layer upon layer on every single branch, creating figures that look like giants draped in white cloaks. They can reach several meters in height, and the sight of your entire field of vision filled with white monsters is a complete departure from everyday life, as if you had landed on an alien planet. An emotion so powerful it stops you in your tracks and steals your voice awaits.

The best season and time of day: the peak when the frost-covered trees reach their maximum volume is typically from late January to mid-February. Because the trees need sustained low temperatures and snowfall to develop fully, this period is far more impressive than the early part of the season. As for the time of day, the morning is the top recommendation. The air is clear, and the contrast between the crisp blue sky and the pure-white frost-covered trees stands out beautifully, making for outstanding photos. In the afternoon the summit tends to become foggy, so aiming to move around the time of the ropeway's first departure (usually around 8:45–9:00) is the best choice.

Board the Hakkoda Ropeway toward Summit Park Station and in just 10 minutes you reach a silver world at an elevation of 1,324 meters. As the gondola climbs, the snowfield below spreads out before your eyes, and cheers rise here and there inside the car at the sight of the snow monsters visible through the windows. But the emotion of stepping out at the summit and being surrounded by a 360-degree throng of snow monsters is simply beyond words. No matter how many photos or videos you take, the coldness of that air and the weight of that silence can never be reproduced—which is exactly why you should come here on your own two feet.

As a way to enjoy it like a local, by all means try a snowshoe hiking tour through the frost-covered tree fields. Walking with a guide across snowfields you could never enter on your own, listening to talk about the mechanism by which the frost-covered trees form and about Hakkoda's rich nature, is a completely different experience from simply viewing them from the ropeway. The light filtering between the frost-covered trees, the crisp squeak of snow with every step—a winter forest walk that engages all five senses will become an unforgettable memory. Tours are basically by advance reservation, so check the schedule on the official website and apply early.

And there is a place you absolutely must stop by after viewing the frost-covered trees: Sukayu Onsen, about a 10-minute drive from the ropeway boarding point. This famous hot spring, beloved as a healing-bath destination since the Edo period, has as its biggest highlight the enormous mixed-bathing hall built entirely of hiba cypress, the "Hiba Sennin-buro" (Thousand-Person Bath). The milky-white sulfur spring filling the vast bath of 160 tatami mats warms a body frozen to the bone right down to the marrow. Bathing first thing on a weekday morning when there are fewer tourists is the special way locals know to enjoy it. Pair it with a hot bowl of tonjiru (pork miso soup) afterward to round off a perfect day of frost-covered tree viewing.

Access

From in front of JR Aomori Station, take the JR Bus Tohoku Hakkoda–Lake Towada Line (winter timetable) about one hour to the "Hakkoda Ropeway-mae" bus stop. From the bus stop it is a short walk to the Hakkoda Ropeway base station. From Tokyo, take the Tohoku Shinkansen to Shin-Aomori Station in about 3 hours, then JR from Shin-Aomori to Aomori Station in about 5 minutes, transferring to the bus from there. By car it is about 40–50 minutes from central Aomori City via National Route 103, but in winter icy and snow-covered roads are the norm, so studless tires plus carrying chains are essential. Parking around the ropeway boarding area gets crowded on weekends and holidays, so arriving early, in the 8 a.m. hour, is strongly recommended.

What to bring and points to note: at the summit it is not unusual for the felt temperature to drop below minus 20°C. A down jacket, a windproof outer layer, a neck warmer, gloves (ideally double-layered with an inner glove plus an outer glove), and a knit hat are absolutely necessary. Don't forget functional inner wear such as Heattech. If too much of your face is exposed, the wind will numb your senses in no time, so bringing a face mask or balaclava makes a world of difference in comfort. Smartphone batteries drain rapidly in the cold, so keep a mobile battery in a warm place such as your pocket. Also, the ropeway may suspend operations in high winds. We recommend checking the day's operating status on the official website or social media before heading out.

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Hirosaki Castle Snow Lantern Festival

Counted among the three great snow festivals of the Tohoku region, the Hirosaki Castle Snow Lantern Festival is a major winter event held every year from early to mid-February. At night the entire Hirosaki Park transforms into a fantastical world. Giant snow sculptures and kamakura (snow huts) carefully built up by the hands of citizens, and countless snow lanterns kindling their faint flames, create a scene that ranks among the most beautiful of any winter festival in Japan. Hirosaki Castle, famed as "Japan's number-one cherry blossom spot" where about 2,600 Somei-Yoshino cherry trees bloom in spring, is now wrapped in silver-white and the light of flames—and that contrast, too, is exceptional. The astonishment of "I never knew that castle could have such a different face," felt precisely because you know it in cherry-blossom season, is a special emotion that only those who have seen Hirosaki Castle in its snowy scenery can taste.

The best season and time of day is, by far, nighttime during the festival period. The snow lanterns begin to be lit around 5 p.m. as the sun sets, and the fully illuminated state around 8 p.m. shows the most fantastical expression. The scene of lanterns of all sizes flickering their soft light against the backdrop of Hirosaki Castle's keep is so picturesque you cannot help but raise your camera. Especially on a clear night when moonlight reflects off the snow, the entire venue glows faintly pale blue, and an otherworldly atmosphere drifts about, as if you had wandered into a fairy tale. Weekends are crowded, so weekday nights during the festival are recommended because you can stroll and take photos at a relaxed pace.

As a way to enjoy it like a local, conquering the street-stall gourmet food within the festival grounds is the way of the local connoisseur. Aomori's regional specialty "senbei-jiru" is a hot-pot dish of broken rice crackers simmered in a chicken-bone and soy-sauce-based broth; the chewy crackers soak up plenty of the soup and are exquisite. The warmth of devouring it under the cold sky is exceptional and heats you from the inside out in an instant. In addition, hot apple cider made from Hirosaki's famous apples is sweet and fruity, hugely popular with children and adults alike. Walking slowly through the venue while cupping the cup in your chilled hands is the style for savoring "Hirosaki in winter."

A hidden tip worth remembering is the northern, Nishi-no-kuruwa area of Hirosaki Park, the festival's main venue. Compared with the area around the main keep that bustles with tourists, there is less foot traffic here, and small, characterful snow lanterns painstakingly made by locals stand quietly in rows. The beauty of this simple, warm light, different again from the gorgeous snow sculptures and large kamakura, settles quietly into your travel memories. After enjoying the liveliness around the main keep, do extend your steps here.

Access

From JR Hirosaki Station it is about a 20-minute walk to Hirosaki Park (Hirosaki Castle). If walking is a bit hard, take the Dotemachi Loop Bus and get off at the Shiyakusho-mae (City Hall) stop for immediate access. From Tokyo, take the Tohoku Shinkansen to Shin-Aomori Station in about 3 hours 10 minutes, then transfer to the JR Ou Main Line (bound for Hirosaki) to Hirosaki Station in about 35 minutes—so a day trip is not impossible using the Shinkansen. That said, we strongly recommend staying a night in Hirosaki to fully enjoy the nighttime snow lantern festival. During the festival, temporary shuttle buses may run from Hirosaki Station, so check the latest information on Hirosaki City's official website in advance.

What to bring and points to note: Hirosaki nights frequently drop to minus 5–10°C. In addition to warm clothing, winter boots with anti-slip soles are absolutely necessary. The stone pavements and bridges of Hirosaki Park freeze easily at night, and you can unexpectedly lose your footing. Walk carefully and prepare portable simple anti-slip cleats (the type you attach to your soles) for extra peace of mind. On weekends during the festival, surrounding parking lots fill up from early in the day, so we strongly recommend using public transportation. Also, having a few disposable hand warmers as a cold-weather measure lets you stay comfortable even during long outdoor viewing.

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Lake Towada Winter Story (Towadako Fuyu Monogatari)

Lake Towada, which sits quietly on the border of Aomori and Akita, shows a completely different face in winter. The "Lake Towada Winter Story" is an event held mainly on weekends from early to mid-February, with snow sculptures of all sizes and illumination appearing on the stage of the lakeside Gozengahama beach. The countless lights gleaming against the frozen lake surface look as if stars floating in space had been brought down to earth, and the scene where silence and beauty intersect is wrapped in a fantastical atmosphere somehow not of this world. If the frost-covered trees of Mount Hakkoda and the snow lanterns of Hirosaki Castle move the heart with "grandeur" and "liveliness" respectively, what the Lake Towada Winter Story gives you is "beauty residing within stillness." As an especially romantic experience even among Aomori's winters, it is engraved deeply in the hearts of many travelers.

The best season and time of day is after sunset during the event period. The illumination is lit from around 4:30 p.m. and can be enjoyed until around 8 p.m. On a clear night in the depths of winter when the lake surface is completely frozen, silence and light blend exquisitely, spreading a breathtaking scene. Daytime should not be missed either. The contrast between the quiet scenery of the lakeshore covered in pure-white snow and the mysterious cobalt-blue clarity of the lake surface is another face of Lake Towada visible only by day. If possible, the ideal is to visit on a lodging plan that lets you see both the daytime and nighttime faces.

As a way to enjoy it like a local, the one to watch is the "Towada Bara-yaki" served at the venue. This regional specialty originating in Towada City, beef and onions stir-fried in plenty of a sweet-and-savory sauce, is a serious contender that has placed near the top at the "B-1 Grand Prix," the national B-grade gourmet competition. Devouring piping-hot bara-yaki in the cold wind sweeping across the lakeshore, its sweet-savory aroma and juicy umami seeping into every corner of your body, is so exquisite it makes you think, "I want to come back just to eat this."

And the greatest hidden charm of Lake Towada is the stillness of night and morning that only overnight guests can taste. After the event ends and the tourists go home, deep silence returns to the lakeshore, and the moonlight reflected on the lake surface and the afterglow of the illumination create a night view of beauty beyond words. Furthermore, the next morning, Lake Towada wrapped in morning mist is the very pinnacle of fantastical beauty. White fog flows slowly across the lake surface, and the surrounding mountains are mirrored in the lake, calm as a water mirror—a scene you can absolutely never see on a day trip, a reward reserved for overnight guests. By all means work a night's stay at one of the hot-spring inns dotting the lakeshore into your itinerary.

Access

From JR Aomori Station or Hachinohe Station, take the JR Bus Tohoku "Mizuumi-go" (operates seasonally and on certain days), about 2 hours 30 minutes from Aomori Station and about 2 hours from Hachinohe Station to the Lake Towada Bus Terminal. Lake Towada is an area with limited public transportation access, and in winter the number of services becomes even fewer. Be sure to check the latest timetable and operating dates on the JR Bus Tohoku official website in advance, and act only after confirming the time of your return bus as well. By car it is about 40 minutes from the "Kosaka IC" on the Tohoku Expressway via National Route 103, but the mountain roads have heavy snow and ice and many curves, so we strongly recommend taking on the drive with a four-wheel-drive vehicle plus studless tires. The weather often changes suddenly, so be sure to check road information before departing.

What to bring and points to note: the area around Lake Towada is at high elevation and can be 5–10°C colder than central Aomori City. Layer thoroughly from thermal inner wear up so you can warm to your core. The lakeshore is often windy, dropping the felt temperature further. Wearing an outer shell with high windproofing and waterproofing as your outermost layer greatly blocks the cold from getting in. Because transportation options are extremely limited in this area, planning it as a set with lodging is reassuring. Also, anyone uneasy about driving mountain roads should not hesitate to choose the combination of public transportation plus an overnight stay.

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Tips for the Winter Trip

Mount Hakkoda frost-covered trees, the Hirosaki Castle Snow Lantern Festival, the Lake Towada Winter Story—conquer these three and you can proudly say you have experienced the entire essence of Aomori's winter. "The artistry of grand nature," "the collaboration of a historic structure and a festival," and "the romance of silence and light"—each a different kind of emotion, are concentrated in Aomori's winter. However, to fully enjoy this beautiful trip, solid advance preparation is indispensable. Keep the following points firmly in mind and welcome the best winter journey.

• Clothing: a layered style that keeps warmth, blocks wind, and repels water for both top and bottom is the basic. Winter boots with anti-slip soles are essential. Choosing moisture-wicking, heat-generating material for inner wear and windproof, waterproof material for the outer layer changes your comfort enormously. Double up your gloves and don't forget to protect your face from the cold.
• Getting around: winter public transportation can experience delays and cancellations due to weather. Always plan your schedule with plenty of leeway, and approach it with enough composure to even enjoy "the possibility that things won't go as planned"—that is the wisdom of winter travel.
• Gathering information: the operating hours of each spot, event dates, and the ropeway's operating status change year by year and with the weather. Always check right before your visit on official websites or Aomori Prefecture's tourism information site "Aomori Kanko Navi."
• Lodging: we strongly recommend working a plan to stay at Sukayu Onsen or a hot-spring inn on the shore of Lake Towada into your itinerary. Not only does it instantly heal travel fatigue and a chilled body, but the fantastical early-morning scenery visible only to overnight guests often becomes a highlight of the trip.
• Allow a generous schedule: Aomori's winter sometimes gently throws off a traveler's plans. Stranded a whole day by a blizzard, the ropeway suspended—but even that becomes part of the story of an Aomori winter. We sincerely recommend visiting on a schedule with leeway, at least three days and two nights, ideally four days and three nights.

Because it is cold, warmth stands out all the more. Because it is harsh, beauty makes the heart tremble. A silver-white world you could never encounter in everyday life is waiting for you. Now then, your travel destination this winter is decided: Aomori.