Fukui Phoenix Matsuri: Fireworks and Street Dancing

For three days in late July and early August, the centre of Fukui City in Fukui Prefecture belongs to the Fukui Phoenix Matsuri. Fireworks light the banks of the Asuwa River, circles of folk dancers fill the tram-lined avenue in front of Fukui Station, and a yosakoi street dance contest turns the same asphalt into a stage. The name Phoenix is not decoration. The festival began in 1954 as an expression of joy at recovery, in a city that had been levelled in turn by wartime air raids, an earthquake and a flood.

Fireworks over the Asuwa River

The opening night belongs to the Phoenix Fireworks, launched from the bank of the Asuwa River as it cuts through the built-up centre of the city. The display runs roughly 30 minutes, from about 7:30 in the evening. Compressing the programme into half an hour makes it dense, with barely a pause between bursts. Both embankments and the bridges above fill with spectators, and the river doubles every shell in reflection. Because the launch site sits in the middle of a city, the large shells open above the silhouettes of office buildings, and each report echoes back off the walls a moment later.

An Avenue That Becomes a Dance Floor

The second day is given over to the folk dance gathering. The tram avenue in front of Fukui Station becomes the venue from around 6 in the evening until about 7:40, as dancers in matching yukata form long lines and move slowly along the street. Heat from the day still radiates from the road surface after sunset, mixing with the clatter of wooden sandals, the beat of drums and the glow of street lamps. The third day brings Yosakoi Icchorai. From 1 in the afternoon until 8:30 at night, team after team appears with naruko clappers in hand, flags whipping overhead and music rolling down the avenue. Watching the same street show two completely different faces on consecutive days is one of the pleasures of this festival.

Why a Phoenix

During the Showa era Fukui City lost its centre repeatedly, to bombing, to an earthquake and to flooding. Each time the city rebuilt, and residents came to describe it as a phoenix. The festival launched in 1954 carries that name deliberately: it is less a generic summer event than an annual commemoration of recovery itself. Just south of the venue rises Mount Asuwa, and partway up its slope stands Asuwa Shrine, which has watched over the city for centuries. A short detour there before or after the fireworks makes the history of the place much easier to feel.

Tips for Visiting

The fireworks last only about half an hour, so allow enough time to be in position before the start rather than drifting in. The riverbank stays humid after dark, and a fan, cold drinks and insect repellent all earn their place in a bag. The dance days are standing events, and they run long, so wear shoes you can stand in and carry something salty as well as water. Because yosakoi teams move along the avenue rather than staying put, you will see more groups by walking to a second performance point than by holding one spot all evening. Note that the exact dates shift from year to year, so confirm them before booking travel.

Getting There

Everything is within walking distance of JR Fukui Station, including the stretch of the Asuwa River used for the fireworks. Extra public transport services run during the festival, though some routes are suspended or diverted. No dedicated car park is provided, so trains and buses are the intended way to arrive.

Practical Information

• Dates: three days in late July or early August each year; a separate marching band event is held in late August
• Venue: the tram avenue around Fukui Station and the Asuwa River bank, Fukui City, Fukui Prefecture
• Organiser and enquiries: Fukui Phoenix Matsuri Executive Committee, Commerce and Labour Division, Fukui City, tel. 0776-20-5325
• Main events: Phoenix Fireworks from about 7:30 in the evening; folk dance gathering from about 6 in the evening; Yosakoi Icchorai from about 1 in the afternoon
• Access: on foot from JR Fukui Station; extra and reduced public transport services during the festival
• Parking: no dedicated car park
• Official website: https://fuku-iro.jp/fukui_fes

* Dates, details and prices are subject to change. Please check the official website before you go.

(Sources: Fukui City official tourism website, Fukui Prefecture official tourism website)