Yabakei Gorge: One of Japan's Three Great Strange Scenic Spots

Yabakei in Nakatsu City, Oita Prefecture, is a scenic site where a lava plateau formed by volcanic activity was eroded over a long span of time, giving rise to magnificent ravine beauty woven by strange rocks, sheer cliffs, and mountain streams. Counted as one of "Japan's Three Great Scenic Wonders," it is a scenic site designated a National Place of Scenic Beauty, and in autumn many visitors come seeking the foliage that colors the rock faces.

Kyoshuho

A landscape spot representing Yabakei. The view of the sheer, strange rocky peaks lined up like a folding screen towering above the clear blue mountain stream is overwhelming. A walking path is also maintained on the mid-slopes of the rocky peaks, so you can enjoy the powerful beauty of the strange rocks up close.

Hitome Hakkei

The highlight of Shin-Yabakei. From the observation deck it is a magnificent viewpoint where you can take in eight scenes at once: Kaiborei, Senniniwa, Shoenzan, Meotoiwa, Gun'enzan, Eboshiiwa, Ojikanagao-no-mine and Tobinosuyama (Nakatsu Yabakei Tourism Association). In the autumn foliage season, crimson and golden colors dye the rock faces, enveloping you in breathtaking beauty.

Ao-no-Domon

A tunnel that the Zen priest Zenkai vowed to create in the Edo period for the safety of the people and horses passing this treacherous stretch, boring it out with chisel and mallet over more than 30 years from 1735 (Kyoho 20). Nakatsu City explains that it was completed in 1764 (Meiwa 1) at a total length of 342 m, of which the tunnel section accounts for 144 m. Also known as the setting of Kan Kikuchi's novel "Beyond the Pale of Vengeance," it is a historical heritage born of human determination and compassion.

"Yabakei Yuran," a Japan Heritage

The natural beauty woven by the strange rocks and ravines of Yabakei, together with the history and culture layered upon it, was certified as a Japan Heritage in April 2017 (Heisei 29). The story is titled "Yabakei Yuran - Traveling the Road of a Landscape Scroll Drawn upon the Earth." According to Nakatsu City, Ao-no-Domon and Kyoshuho, the Yabakei Bridge, Rakanji Temple, Hitome Hakkei and the Sarutobi Sentsubokyo Gorge are among the component cultural properties. Autumn leaf viewing tends to end with a stop at an observation deck, but if you connect these places into a single line as you tour, you can really feel that Yabakei is a scenic area that has long been described as "one continuous road like a picture scroll."

Rakanji, an Ancient Temple Cradled by Rock Walls

Worth visiting alongside the autumn foliage is Rakanji, a Soto Zen temple in Honyabakei-machi, Nakatsu City. According to Nakatsu City's account, several thousand stone Buddhas are enshrined in the rock caves within the precincts, and the Five Hundred Rakan statues seated in the Murokutsu cave are known as the oldest stone Five Hundred Rakan in Japan. The Fusairo hall also enshrines a Thousand-Body Jizo, and the group of stone Buddhas at Rakanji was designated an Important Cultural Property of Japan on August 21, 2014 (Heisei 26). The sight of the temple buildings melting into the enormous rock wall takes on a distinctive character in each season, and in autumn the trees dyed red and yellow form a contrast with the color of the rock face.

There is something you need to know before you go. Nakatsu City advises that the lift has been suspended since March 2024, and as of September 2026 no reopening date has been announced. That means it is about a 20-minute walk uphill from the car park to the main hall. Older guidance written on the assumption that the lift runs is still in circulation, so build that 20-minute climb into your plan, especially if you are travelling with older relatives or small children. Comfortable walking shoes and time to spare are essential.

The conditions of the visit also differ from an ordinary tourist temple. Entry is from 8:30 to 15:30 and the gates close at 17:00. The offering is 1,000 yen for junior high school age and above and 500 yen for elementary school children (free below school age; 500 yen for local residents and zazen participants). Photography is prohibited inside the grounds, as is mobile phone use, and animals are not admitted; non-Japanese-speaking visitors are asked to bring an interpreter, and groups of five or more must make contact the day before. The nearest community bus stop is Rakanji, but that service does not run on Wednesdays, Saturdays or Sundays — a weekend visit by public transport is not workable. Treat this as a place to stand among the stone figures rather than a place to photograph autumn leaves (Nakatsu City Tourism Division 0979-62-9034).

Sarutobi Sentsubokyo and Mabayashikyo

Sarutobi Sentsubokyo, in the upper reaches of the Yamakuni River, is a National Natural Monument where potholes carved into the rock by water over long ages continue for about 2 km. The Nakatsu Yabakei Tourism Association introduces it as being "like a work of art created by the mountain stream. The pure flow of the water and the rich natural surroundings soothe those who visit." An adjoining gorge, Mabayashikyo, has a maintained walking path where you can savor the contrast between the powerful strange rocks and the natural setting up close. Compared with Hitome Hakkei and Ao-no-Domon, fewer people come here, making it an area suited to those who want to face the ravine's beauty in quiet.

Photographing the Autumn Colors Well

At Yabakei the star of the autumn foliage is the contrast between rock and trees. At Hitome Hakkei, rather than only framing the eight rocky peaks in a wide horizontal shot from the observation deck, place colored branches in the foreground to create depth and the three-dimensional feel of the ravine comes through. At Kyoshuho and Ao-no-Domon, cropping the folding-screen line of rock walls in vertical orientation brings the sheer scale of their height to life.

As for light, the early morning before the sun climbs high is the moment to aim for. The hours when morning mist flows through the valley are otherworldly and popular with photographers. Conversely, colors easily wash out under strong midday light, so on a lightly overcast day the autumn leaves actually register in calmer tones. After rain the rock faces and fallen leaves are wet and the colors come out deeper, so targeting the day after a spell of bad weather is one approach.

Yabakei Through the Four Seasons

Yabakei is famous as a destination for autumn foliage, but it is well worth visiting in other seasons too. In spring, fresh green leaves and mountain cherry blossoms add pale color between the strange rocks; in early summer, deep green covers the ravine and the sound of the water feels all the cooler. In winter the leaves fall and the sculpted forms of the rock are laid bare, making it the season when you can best sense that Yabakei is a landform born from the erosion of a lava plateau. If you want to avoid the crowds and walk at leisure, choosing a time outside the foliage season is another way to enjoy it.

Best Season

The official sources disagree by about a month, so read this carefully. Nakatsu City, the local authority, states that the foliage is at its best "from mid-November to early December in a typical year," while Tourism Oita, the prefectural tourism body, gives "late October to mid-November." A traveller who follows the prefectural figure and arrives in late October may find the trees still green; one who reads the same figure and writes off early December may miss the best of it.

This article suggests giving weight to Nakatsu City's own window (mid-November to early December) while allowing for colour to begin from late October. Either way it moves every year with the weather, so check current colour reports with the Yabakei Branch Regional Development Division (0979-54-3111) or the Nakatsu Yabakei Tourism Association before setting out. The performance of morning mist at early dawn together with the autumn leaves is also popular among photographers.

Worth Touring Together

Touring the ravine on the "Maple Yaba Cycling Road," a cycling road developed from a former railway track, is also popular. In central Nakatsu City there are Nakatsu Castle associated with Kuroda Kanbei, as well as numerous shops serving the local specialty karaage (fried chicken), so you can enjoy gourmet food too.

Access

To reach Shin-Yabakei and Hitome Hakkei by public transport, take the Daiko Hokubu Bus bound for Morizane Onsen from Nakatsu Station on the JR Nippo Main Line, change at Kakisaka to a bus bound for Bungo-Mori, and get off at Shin-Yabakei Onsen, right at the site (Nakatsu Yabakei Tourism Association). There is no direct service and departures are limited, and because the scenic spots are scattered, touring by car is the realistic option.

Practical Information

• Best season and time of day: The two official sources disagree — Nakatsu City gives mid-November to early December, Tourism Oita gives late October to mid-November. Plan with that spread in mind, giving weight to the local authority's figure. For morning mist, come early in the morning; to avoid crowds, weekday mornings are recommended.
• Access: Hitome Hakkei is located at 3152 Oaza Shin-Yabakei, Yabakei-machi, Nakatsu City, Oita Prefecture. By public transport, take the Daiko Hokubu Bus bound for Morizane Onsen from Nakatsu Station on the JR Nippo Main Line, change at Kakisaka to a bus bound for Bungo-Mori, and get off at Shin-Yabakei Onsen, right at the site (Nakatsu Yabakei Tourism Association). There is no direct service and departures are limited.
• Parking: At Hitome Hakkei the public car park has 256 spaces for standard vehicles and 11 for buses, free and open 24 hours, with toilets including accessible ones. It is about a 5-minute walk to the observation deck (Nakatsu City). Figures for Ao-no-Domon differ between official sources: 80 cars and 7 large buses according to Nakatsu City, about 85 cars and 8 large vehicles according to the tourism association — the city page has not been updated since 2019, so the association's figure may be the current one. The interior of Ao-no-Domon has a 3.6 m height limit. Saruto-bi Sentsubokyo has 36 free spaces, Marin Gorge 12.
• Illumination: Nakatsu City states explicitly that Hitome Hakkei is not illuminated. The venues are Keisekien (2286-1 Oaza Oshima, Yabakei-machi) and Hisashi-momiji, a roughly 50 m stretch along Prefectural Route 28 in Shin-Yabakei. The 2026 dates had not been announced as of September 2026 — the "1 November to 1 December, 17:00–21:00, free admission" figures circulating online are the 2025 schedule and should not be treated as this year's. Enquiries: 0979-54-3111. (Tourism Oita lists this number as 0979-54-1111, but Nakatsu City's own pages give 3111.)
• Buses to Rakanji: the community bus serving the Rakanji stop does not run on Wednesdays, Saturdays or Sundays.
• After the 2026 Kumamoto earthquake: Tourism Oita announced on 4 September 2026 that no significant impact has been confirmed on tourism in Oita Prefecture, that there are no expressway closures in the prefecture, and that JR services run normally. Prefectural and municipal road information specific to Yabakei could not be confirmed, so check your route before setting out. The pedestrian closure of Municipal Road Hida-Nakashima Line at Ao-no-Domon was lifted on 1 April 2026.
• Photography etiquette: The observation deck and walking paths are narrow, and the foliage season is extremely crowded. Be considerate of those around you: do not block the path with a tripod, and take turns. The surrounding houses, fields and woodlands are private property. Do not enter without permission. Parking on the road is strictly prohibited, as it blocks local roads used for daily life.
• Safety notes: Prefectural and national roads become congested during the foliage season. The exploration trail at Kyoshuho is an undulating mountain path with risks of falling rocks and slipping, so wear comfortable walking shoes and start early. The hand-dug section of Ao-no-Domon is narrow and dark, and there are stretches where cars and pedestrians mix. Watch your footing and watch for cars. The riverbanks are dangerous when the water is high.

*The peak of the autumn foliage varies from year to year. Do not count on a specific date; check the latest information from the Nakatsu Yabakei Tourism Association before setting out.*

(Sources: Nakatsu Yabakei Tourism Association official website "Hitome Hakkei"; Nakatsu City, Oita Prefecture official website "Ao-no-Domon")

Practical Information for the Autumn Foliage Season (Based on Official Announcements)

Yabakei is not a single facility — it is an area of Nakatsu City where scenic spots are scattered across a wide range. Here we compile only the figures that official sources have published, arranged in the order you would visit them on an itinerary.

Car Parks and Contact Information for Major Spots

※ The peak times are the approximate averages published by Tourism Oita. The same site notes: "Peak times are approximate averages for a typical year. They vary daily according to weather conditions; please enquire for the latest." As noted above, Nakatsu City's official website lists mid-November to early December for Hitome Hakkei, which does not agree with Tourism Oita's figure.

Night Illuminations — "Not at Hitome Hakkei"

There is a great deal of confusion about this, so let us be clear. The Nakatsu City official website states: "※ No night illuminations are held at Hitome Hakkei."

The illumination venues are Keisekien (Oaza Ojima 2286-1, Yabakei-cho, Nakatsu City) and Hisashi Momiji (Shin-Yabakei, approx. 50 m along Prefectural Road 28). Because Hisashi Momiji is in the Shin-Yabakei area, it is easy to conflate "Shin-Yabakei = Hitome Hakkei = illuminations," but the viewpoint at Hitome Hakkei itself is not illuminated.

Furthermore, no dates for 2026 have been officially announced as of September 2026. The heading on the Nakatsu Yabakei Tourism Association's page still reads "2025 Autumn Foliage Illuminations," and the Tourism Oita listing also shows the 2025 dates of 1 November–1 December. The string "1 November–1 December, 17:00–21:00, free admission" has taken on a life of its own online, but this is the 2025 record, not this year's schedule. Anyone planning a visit should contact the Yabakei Branch Office, Regional Revitalisation Division directly (0979-54-3111).

Note also that the phone number for enquiries differs by one digit between sources: the Nakatsu Yabakei Tourism Association lists 0979-54-3111 and Tourism Oita lists 0979-54-1111. Since the Nakatsu City official Hitome Hakkei page also shows 3111, 0979-54-3111 is considered correct.

The Reality of Getting There by Public Transport

To reach Shin-Yabakei and Hitome Hakkei by public transport, take JR Nippo Main Line from Nakatsu Station to Daiko Hokubu Bus "Mamimionsen" service, go to "Kakisaka," transfer to the "Bungonoseki" service, and alight at "Shin-Yabakei Onsen" (Nakatsu Yabakei Tourism Association). There is no direct service; a transfer is required, and frequency is limited. Official details of fares and the number of services per day could not be confirmed.

To reach Aonodomon, take the "Mamimionsen" service from Nakatsu Station for approximately 25 minutes; the nearest stop is "Aonodomon." The nearest stop to Rakanji Temple is the community bus "Rakanji" stop, but this community bus does not run on Wednesdays, Saturdays, or Sundays. Plans to reach Rakanji Temple by public transport at weekends are not workable — be aware of this.

Because the scenic spots are spread far apart, a car is the realistic choice if you want to cover several in a single day.

Impact of the 2026 Kumamoto Earthquake

Tourism Oita announced on 4 September 2026 that "at present no significant impact on tourism and accommodation in Oita Prefecture has been confirmed, and most accommodation and tourist facilities are operating normally," "there are no expressway closures in Oita Prefecture," and "JR services within Oita Prefecture are operating normally."

However, individual road closure information at the level of prefectural and municipal roads in the Yabakei area could not be confirmed on either the Nakatsu City or Tourism Association official websites as of September 2026. If your itinerary includes narrow mountain roads, please check road conditions immediately before departure. Note that the Nakatsu Yabakei Tourism Association issued a notice dated 1 April 2026 confirming the reopening of the municipal Toidanakajima Line (Aonodomon) to pedestrians — that closure has been lifted.

What We Could Not Confirm

To help readers avoid difficulties on the ground, we honestly record here the items that official sources did not cover.

• Whether Hitome Hakkei viewpoint itself charges an admission fee or has set opening hours (the car park is stated to be free and open 24 hours, but no admission fee or hours are stated for the viewpoint itself, so it cannot be confirmed as free)
• Number of spaces and parking fee at Rakanji Temple
• Estimated reopening date for the Rakanji Lift suspension ("for the time being" is all that is stated)
• Opening hours and days off at the Shin-Yabakei Tourist Information Centre
• Whether any traffic restrictions or one-way systems will apply during the 2026 foliage season
• Whether the walking paths at Sarutobichitsubo-kyo and Maringakyo are passable during the foliage season
• Fare and frequency of Daiko Hokubu Bus from Nakatsu Station to Aonodomon

Please check these points locally or with the relevant enquiry contacts.

Information Sources

The figures in this section are based on Nakatsu City, Oita Prefecture official website (pages for Hitome Hakkei, Aonodomon, Rakanji Temple, Sarutobichitsubo-kyo, Maringakyo, Shin-Yabakei Reikoku), Nakatsu Yabakei Tourism Association official website (pages for Hitome Hakkei, Aonodomon, Autumn Foliage/Yellow Foliage Illuminations), and Tourism Oita official website "visit-oita.jp" (Oita Prefecture foliage feature, notice on the 2026 Kumamoto earthquake). Fares, hours, and operating conditions are subject to change. In particular, the 2026 illumination dates had not been announced at the time this article was compiled — please check all official sources before your visit.

*Dates and prices are subject to change. Please check the latest information on each official website before you set out.*