Mt. Haguro & Dewa Sanzan Pilgrimage, Yamagata

Dewa Sanzan (Three Mountains of Dewa)

The Three Mountains of Dewa (Gassan, Haguro-san, Yudonosan), located in the Shonai region of Yamagata Prefecture, are sacred mountains known since antiquity as a Shugendo (mountain asceticism) holy site. The pilgrimage through the three mountains symbolizes "death and rebirth," and many ascetics and worshippers still visit today.

Three Mountain Characteristics

• Haguro-san (about 414m): Mountain of worldly happiness; accessible from Tsuruoka
• Gassan (1,984m): Mountain representing the afterlife; mainly summer climbing
• Yudonosan: Mountain symbolizing rebirth and regeneration; the inner shrine is a "do not speak, do not ask" sacred sanctuary

Haguro-san Highlights

• Five-Story Pagoda (National Treasure): A pagoda standing in the forest; the present structure is said to have been rebuilt about six hundred years ago and is regarded as the oldest pagoda in the Tohoku region
• Cedar Promenade: A mystical approach lined with old-growth cedars several hundred years old
• Dewa Sanzan Shrine (Sanshu Gassai-den): A grand hall at the summit enshrining all three mountains deities together

Getting There

• From JR Uetsu Main Line Tsuruoka Station by bus to Haguro-san Zuijinmon: about 50 minutes

Tips

Walking the cedar-lined stone stairway approach of Haguro-san is the highlight (2,446 stone steps). Shoes suitable for walking are required. Gassan has heavy snowfall, so July to September is best.

Practical Travel Notes

• Best season and time: The cedar avenue and pagoda of Haguro-san can be enjoyed year round, but the fresh green of May to June and the autumn leaves of October to early November are especially beautiful. Since the steps take time both ways, an early morning visit is reassuring
• Time needed: The climb from the Zuijinmon gate to the summit is roughly one to one and a half hours one way at a relaxed pace; the pagoda alone is about ten minutes on foot from the Zuijinmon
• Touring the three mountains: Gassan and Yudonosan cannot be visited during the snowy season, and their opening is usually in summer, so plan a three-mountain tour for summer to autumn
• Avoiding crowds: The steps are quietest in the early morning. If using the bus, services are limited, so check the times in advance
• Clothing and gear: Comfortable shoes suited to climbing and descending the steps are essential. A drink and rain gear add reassurance
• Nearby real spots: Pair your trip with central Tsuruoka in the Shonai region, the Kamo Aquarium, and Yunohama Onsen
• Budget sense: Visiting Haguro-san is free, but allow for the Haguro-san toll road, admission to the Gassai-den, and vegetarian temple cuisine

A Quick Tip

The real pleasure of the 2,446 stone steps of Haguro-san is climbing them one at a time while taking in the cedar avenue and the pagoda along the approach. Allow plenty of time and wear comfortable shoes. Because Gassan and Yudonosan are limited by season, a tour of the three mountains is best planned for summer through autumn.

📚 Sources

The information here is based mainly on the public guidance published by Dewa Sanzan Shrine. Public materials from Yamagata Prefecture and the Shonai region tourism associations, the notices for the five-story pagoda, Zuishinmon gate, and the Sanjin Gosaiden at Mount Haguro, and on-site information boards are also useful references. Because the Mount Haguro toll road, the Sanjin Gosaiden viewing, bus operation, and the opening seasons of Mount Gassan and Mount Yudono may change, please confirm the latest details with each facility or tourism association before you visit.

Visitor Checklist

• Estimated time needed: About 1 hour to 1.5 hours one way to climb the stone steps from the Zuishinmon gate to the summit; about a 10-minute walk from the gate for the pagoda alone.
• What to bring: Comfortable shoes suited to climbing the steps are essential; bring drinks and rain gear. Mount Gassan and Mount Yudono cannot be visited during snow, so plan a three-mountain tour for summer to autumn.
• Suggested route: From the Zuishinmon gate, walk the cedar avenue to view the national-treasure pagoda, climb the 2,446 steps to pray at the Sanjin Gosaiden at the summit, and combine the visit with central Tsuruoka, the Kamo Aquarium, and Yunohama Onsen in the Shonai region.

Practical Information for Your Visit

• Inquiries: Dewa Sanzan Shrine (Mount Haguro) 0235-62-2355 / reception 8:30-17:00. The address is 7 Toge-aza-Toge, Haguro-machi, Tsuruoka City, Yamagata 997-0292
• Gassan Shrine Hongu: The climbing season runs from July 1 to September 15 (TEL 090-8921-9151). Otahara Shrine at the 8th station of Mount Gassan is open July 1 to September 23 (TEL 090-2367-9037)
• Yudonosan Shrine Hongu: The climbing season runs from June 1 to November 3 (TEL 0235-54-6133). Worship is not possible outside this period
• Mount Haguro: Open for worship all year round. From the Zuishinmon gate to the Sanjin Gosaiden hall at the summit there are 2,446 stone steps (the "Haguro-san Misaka"). Allow about 1 hour to 1 hour 30 minutes one way at a relaxed pace
• National Treasure Five-Storied Pagoda: A three-bay, five-storey pagoda of plain unpainted wood with a kokera-buki (wooden shingle) roof, standing to the left of the start of the Ichinozaka slope. The present pagoda is said to have been rebuilt during the Bunchu era of Emperor Chokei (about 600 years ago) by Muto Masauji, lord of Shonai and betto (head administrator) of Mount Haguro
• Suggested route of highlights: Zuishinmon gate to Mamakozaka slope to the Harai-gawa river and Shinkyo bridge to Suga Falls to the National Treasure Five-Storied Pagoda to the stone steps to the Sanjin Gosaiden hall at the summit
• Topic for 2026: Reiwa 8 is a Hinoe-uma year, and it is being publicized as the "Mount Haguro Uma-doshi Go-ennen" Year of the Horse anniversary, with special amulets and other offerings. Announcements about buses and other secondary transport are also posted on the official website from time to time
• Safety notes (Mount Haguro): The stone steps are slippery with moss and fallen leaves, so take particular care after rain. Some sections have no handrail, so wear shoes with good grip and carry a backpack that leaves both hands free. There is almost no lighting after sunset, so finish your descent while it is still light
• Safety notes (Mount Gassan and Mount Yudono): Mount Gassan is a serious mountain. Even in summer the ridge can have strong winds and low temperatures, so rain gear (top and bottom), warm clothing, gloves, a headlamp, trail snacks and plenty of water are essential. Thunderclouds build easily in the afternoon, so make a point of starting early and finishing early, and if you hear thunder, move away from the ridge and keep low
• Preparing for bears: The mountains of the Tohoku region are habitat for Asiatic black bears. Avoid going alone, walk while making noise with a bear bell or radio, and keep activity in the early morning and evening to a minimum
• Guide to fitness required: In Dewa Sanzan Shrine's training programs, the "Sanzan-gake" that links the three mountains on foot is given as a distance of 15 km taking about 6 hours. If you plan to walk the three mountains, allow for this level of fitness and time
• Photography rules and manners: Always follow the notices on site as to whether photography is permitted before the deities or inside the shrine buildings. At the summit of Mount Haguro the shrine has issued a request regarding photographing the ruddy kingfisher (a wild bird). Please be considerate: do not block the approach with a tripod, and do not photograph yamabushi mountain ascetics in training without permission

Note: Mount Gassan and Mount Yudono have limited climbing seasons, and the worship trails are closed outside those periods. Plan a tour of the three mountains for summer or autumn.

Note: The conservation and repair work on the kokera-buki roof of the National Treasure Five-Storied Pagoda was completed in September 2024.

(Sources: Dewa Sanzan Shrine official website and others. As of July 2026)