Kudoji in Aomori: A Mountain Sanctuary of Tsugaru Where Itako Gather

On the outskirts of Hirosaki City, at the end of a road leading into the mountains of Sakamoto, Kudoji stands quietly. A temple of the Chisan school of Shingon Buddhism, it is the first sacred site of the Tsugaru Thirty-three Kannon pilgrimage and has long gathered the faith of the people of Tsugaru. Its principal image is the Sacred Kannon. It is not a flashy temple crowded with tourists, but simply walking the cedar-lined approach fills you with a solemn presence that straightens your spine.

What this temple is especially known for is the Oshira-ko, tied to the Tsugaru folk faith of Oshira-sama. Held each year on May 15 and 16 (formerly in the fourth lunar month), it is a precious event unique to Tsugaru in which people bring the paired male-female Oshira figures of mulberry wood enshrined in their homes and villages. It was once known for itako gathering after fire rituals, but in recent years the itako are no longer seen. The "customs of the Oshira-ko of Kudoji" was selected in 1999 as an intangible folk cultural property warranting documentation measures by the nation.

Kudoji is also known for housing a ghost painting attributed to Maruyama Okyo, the "Hangonko no zu." A 2021 study confirmed it as an authentic work by Okyo, and it is displayed for only a short time once a year, on the day corresponding to the eighteenth of the fifth lunar month.

Highlights

• The solemn cedar-lined approach leading into the mountains.
• The main hall, beloved as the first site of the Tsugaru Thirty-three Kannon pilgrimage.
• The Oshira-ko held in May and the Oshira figures of mulberry wood.
• The ghost painting "Hangonko no zu" attributed to Maruyama Okyo.

Access and Basic Information

• Location: Sakamoto, Hirosaki City, Aomori Prefecture (mountains on the outskirts of Hirosaki City).
• By car: Reachable by car from central Hirosaki; parking is available near the grounds.
• Worship: The approach has slopes, so comfortable walking shoes are recommended.
• Viewing: The days and times for viewing the ghost painting are limited, so check in advance.

Practical Travel Notes

• Best season and time: The Oshira-ko in May is a special time to touch the old faith culture of Tsugaru. In the seasons of fresh greenery and autumn leaves, the cedar-lined approach and the mountain nature are beautiful, and even a quiet stroll settles the heart. Winter grows deep with snow, so the snow-free seasons are safer for walking.
• Avoiding crowds: The Oshira-ko and the ghost-painting viewing day draw worshippers. For quiet worship, choose another weekday.
• Time needed: About 40 minutes to one hour for a stroll of the approach and worship.
• Nearby real spots: Central Hirosaki offers Hirosaki Castle (Hirosaki Park) and the townscape of a castle town with surviving Western-style buildings, easy to combine by car.
• Budget: Worship is free. The special viewing of the ghost painting or receiving a goshuin requires the respective offering fee.

A Quick Tip

It has no flashiness, but it is a rare place to touch the depth of the spiritual culture of Tsugaru. Walking the quiet approach slowly, let your thoughts turn to the old form of prayer rooted in this land. If you are interested in Maruyama Okyo's ghost painting, it is best to look up the viewing day in advance before you visit.

📚 Sources

For Kudoji in Sakamoto, Hirosaki City, its standing as the first stop of the Tsugaru Thirty-Three Kannon pilgrimage, the Oshira-ko custom of Kudoji selected as an Intangible Folk Cultural Property for which recording measures should be taken, and the ghost painting Hangonko-no-zu attributed to Maruyama Okyo, information related to Kudoji and Hirosaki City and on-site guidance are helpful references. The days and times the ghost painting is shown are limited. Fares, hours, and access may change, so please confirm with official information before you set out.

Visitor Checklist

• Estimated time needed: About 40 minutes to 1 hour for a stroll along the approach and worship.
• What to bring and prepare: The approach has slopes, so wear comfortable shoes. The showing days of the ghost painting are limited, so if interested, check the schedule in advance before visiting.
• Suggested route: Climb the cedar-lined approach to worship at the main hall, the first stop of the Tsugaru Thirty-Three Kannon. During the Oshira-ko in May, the mulberry-wood Oshira-sama are brought together. It can be toured with Hirosaki Castle (Hirosaki Park) and the castle town.
• Best time of day: For a quiet visit, weekdays other than the Oshira-ko or showing days are recommended.
• Seasonal note: Winter brings deep snow, so if walking, the snow-free season is reassuring.