Kuri Kinton, the Elegant Autumn Chestnut Sweet of Nakatsugawa

Kuri kinton is an autumn wagashi said to have originated in Nakatsugawa, Gifu Prefecture. Steamed chestnuts are simmered with only a small amount of sugar, then wrung in a cloth and shaped to resemble a chestnut, a simple sweet that lets the ingredient shine. The fluffy natural sweetness and aroma of the chestnut come through directly, and its refined, deep flavor captivates many people.

Highlights

Nakatsugawa long flourished as a post town on the Nakasendo road, and kuri kinton is said to have been served to travelers there. In front of Nakatsugawa Station stands a stone monument marking it as the birthplace of kuri kinton, and the town is lined with long-established wagashi shops competing in flavor, such as Suya, founded in the Genroku era, and Kawakamiya, founded in 1864. The subtle differences in how each shop cooks the chestnuts and balances the sweetness are worth noting.

Enjoying the Seasons

Kuri kinton is a seasonal sweet made only from autumn into winter, in step with the domestic chestnut harvest. Many shops begin selling around September, with roughly the following January as an end point. Visiting Nakatsugawa in season and comparing each shops kuri kinton, a tour known locally as a kuri kinton pilgrimage, is a luxurious pleasure unique to autumn.

Access and Basic Information

The long-established kuri kinton shops are scattered across the area from JR Nakatsugawa Station to the old Nakasendo post town. From Nagoya it is roughly an hour by the JR Chuo Main Line. Starting from the birthplace monument in front of the station, you can tour several shops on foot. Kuri kinton from long-standing shops such as Suya and Kawakamiya is around a few hundred yen per piece, and boxed sets make good souvenirs. Since sales are limited to the autumn-to-winter period, take care to note when you visit.

Practical Travel Notes

Kuri kinton is a fresh sweet with a short shelf life, so buying it in the latter half of your trip or just before heading home makes it easier to carry. Popular shops can sell out by late afternoon, so a morning visit is safest. To enjoy comparing, buy one from each of several shops. Autumn Nakatsugawa bustles with chestnut sweets, and you can also encounter each shops variations, such as upscale confections and dorayaki made with kuri kinton. To round out the tasting, gohei mochi from the same Tono area pairs well. Touring the stone-paved Magome-juku on the Nakasendo or the scenic Ena Gorge while hopping between shops makes for an autumnal way to spend the day.

A Quick Tip

Because it is a fresh sweet with a short shelf life, it is best enjoyed the same day you buy it. Buying a little from several shops and comparing to find your favorite is recommended. Since it is available only from around September to January, aim to visit during that window.