Kiyoken Shumai a Yokohama Specialty: Where to Eat

Long beloved around Yokohama Station, Kiyoken shumai is one of the dishes that represent Yokohama. Kiyoken was founded in 1908 (Meiji 41), and in 1928 (Showa 3) it launched "shumai" as a Yokohama specialty. The first president, Mokichi Nonami, took note of the shumai served as a complimentary appetizer in Nankinmachi (today's Chinatown), invited the dim sum chef Go Guson, and perfected the recipe through repeated study. The pieces were made bite-sized so that they would not spill even in a swaying train carriage. By combining pork with dried scallop, the savory depth lasts even when the shumai has cooled. As a bento standard, it has been chosen as a travel companion and a gift to bring home. The gourd-shaped soy sauce container called Hyochan that comes in the box is popular too, cherished among fans.

Highlights

• The packed savory depth woven by pork and dried scallop
• A morsel crafted to taste good cold, perfect for station bento
• The colorful makeup of a boxed lunch arranged alongside rice
• Thoughtful touches such as the gourd-shaped soy sauce container Hyochan

Enjoying the Seasons

Delicious even cold, shumai is ideal for an outing season bento. There is joy in spreading it out to eat outdoors during spring blossom viewing or autumn excursions. Enjoyed piping hot from the steamer at home, it becomes a cold season treat too, a taste that accompanies the table all year.

The Shumai Bento — A Finished Form

According to Kiyoken's official information, the "Shumai Bento" appeared in 1954 (Showa 29), born from the wish to create a station bento that would represent Yokohama. Its current contents are bale-shaped rice (with a small pickled plum and black sesame), five pieces of the classic Mukashi-nagara no Shumai, marinated grilled tuna, kamaboko fish cake, fried chicken, tamagoyaki omelet, simmered bamboo shoots, apricot, and shredded kombu with julienned ginger, priced at 1,180 yen (tax included). The rice pressed into bale shapes is easy to lift with chopsticks and easy to handle even on a swaying train. Because the star of the box — the shumai — was made from the start so that its savor lasts when cool, the whole assembly is designed on the assumption that it will be eaten at room temperature. It is a bento so long beloved that people happily debate which side dish to reach for first.

Hyochan — The Story of a Little Soy Sauce Container

The gourd-shaped soy sauce container "Hyochan" that comes in the box was born in 1955 (Showa 30). When the previously glass soy sauce container was changed to a porcelain gourd shape, the cartoonist Ryuichi Yokoyama said, "Let me give it eyes and a nose," drew a face on it, and named it "Hyochan" himself. The first generation had 48 varieties, after the 48 characters of the iroha syllabary. From 1988 to 2003, a second generation by Osamu Harada was released in 80 varieties, and from 2003 a third generation revived the first-generation designs in 48 varieties. The third generation comes with the "Mukashi-nagara no Shumai" and "Tokusei Shumai," and counting both large and small there are 96 varieties. In anniversary years, such as company milestones, limited-edition Hyochan sometimes appear. Once you start collecting them it is hard to stop — a small pleasure unique to Kiyoken.

The Craft Inside a Single Bite

When you pick up a piece of shumai, the first thing you notice is the aroma of dried scallop. Because it is bite-sized, it does not fall apart when lifted with chopsticks, and as you chew, the savor of the pork and the flavor of the scallop layer together. The wrapper is thin, letting the filling take the lead. The fact that a mere drop of soy sauce from Hyochan is enough to complete the flavor is surely because the taste was built around being eaten cold. A little mustard, if you like it, tightens the finish. The very idea of pairing pork with dried scallop was the answer reached by the first president, Mokichi Nonami, after inviting the dim sum chef Go Guson and studying the recipe again and again.

Photography Tips

A Shumai Bento makes a picture simply by shooting it from directly above the moment you lift the lid, because the orderly arrangement of bale-shaped rice and side dishes is itself a piece of design. If you shoot on the train, letting natural light from the window fall from the side gives the side dishes a glossy sheen and a sense of depth. Turn Hyochan's face toward you and set it neatly in front of the bento, and it takes on star-level presence. Since each design is different, collecting photos on every trip and lining them up is one way to enjoy it. When photographing on board, take care that other passengers are not caught in the frame.

Access and Basic Information

• Available at shops inside and around Yokohama Station and at department stores
• Also sold at kiosks in Tokyo Station and major stations, easy to buy en route
• Easy to carry as a bento, perfect for a meal on the road
• A classic gift that pleases as a present
• Reheating brings back the freshly steamed aroma

Practical Travel Notes

• The classic shumai and the Shumai Bento are easy to buy at station kiosks and simple to enjoy aboard the train
• Designed to taste good cold, the flavor holds even when there is a gap between buying and eating
• For a souvenir, the boxed type that keeps at room temperature is convenient
• Yokohama Station is a transit hub where many lines meet, easy to visit before or after a trip
• The Hyochan in the box comes in many expressions, adding the fun of collecting

A Quick Tip

If you eat it while traveling, the bento type that is easy to enjoy on the train is recommended. When eating at home, a light re-steaming makes the plump texture and savory flavor stand out even more. Enjoy the Yokohama character along with the varied faces of the Hyochan soy sauce container.

Souvenir and Takeaway Hints

Kiyoken shumai is a specialty long beloved around Yokohama Station, a long-selling product ever since Kiyoken — founded in 1908 — released "shumai" in 1928. The classic shumai, made to taste good even when cold, and the famous "Shumai Bento" can be bought at Yokohama Station and at department stores and kiosks. Vacuum-packed and frozen shumai keep well and are a souvenir standard. Trying the freshly made pieces or the bento at a station or shop is also recommended.

Sightseeing Checklist

• Budget guide: Boxed shumai and bento are reasonably priced
• Where to eat it: Yokohama Station and other kiosks and department stores in Kanagawa Prefecture
• Recommended time: Available year-round; the bento is best at lunchtime
• Crowd tips: Easy to buy as a souvenir item
• Enjoy it together with: The Shumai Bento, sightseeing in Yokohama, and a stroll through Chinatown

Practical Information

• Best season: Available year-round.
• Main places to buy: Kiosks inside and around Yokohama Station, department stores and shops within the prefecture, and kiosks at major stations in the Tokyo metropolitan area.
• History (from Kiyoken's official information): Founded in 1908 (Meiji 41) at the first Yokohama Station. In 1928 (Showa 3) it released the Yokohama specialty "shumai," in 1954 (Showa 29) the "Shumai Bento" was born, and in 1955 (Showa 30) the "Hyochan" soy sauce container appeared.
• Main ingredients: Pork and dried scallop. The pieces are made bite-sized so they taste good even when cold.
• Cautions: Some products contain pork, wheat, egg, and other ingredients. Wheat and egg are "designated raw materials" whose labeling is required under the Food Labeling Act, so anyone with allergies should check the ingredient labeling before buying. Bento products have a short use-by date, so follow the stated expiry and storage instructions and eat them promptly.

*Opening hours, products handled, and prices vary by retail outlet.*

📚 Sources

Kiyoken official website, "The Path of Kiyoken" and "All About Kiyoken's Shumai"; Consumer Affairs Agency, "Food Allergy Labeling." This article is compiled from Kanagawa Prefecture tourism information and information published by each shop. Prices, menus, and seasonal availability may change, so please check each shop's official information for details.

Practical Information for Your Visit

• Season: Available all year round.
• Main areas to buy it: Shops inside and around Yokohama Station, department stores and outlets around the prefecture, and kiosks at major stations in the Tokyo metropolitan area.
• History (from Kiyoken's official information): Founded in 1908 (Meiji 41) at the first Yokohama Station. The Yokohama specialty "Shumai" went on sale in 1928 (Showa 3), the "Shumai Bento" was born in 1954 (Showa 29), and the "Hyo-chan" soy sauce bottle appeared in 1955 (Showa 30).
• Main ingredients: Pork and dried scallop. They are made bite-sized so that they taste good even when cold.
• Points to note: Some products contain pork, wheat, egg and other ingredients. Wheat and egg are "specified raw materials" whose labeling is required under the Food Labeling Act, so anyone with allergies should check the ingredient labeling before purchase. Boxed meals have a short use-by date, so follow the stated date and storage instructions and eat them promptly.

Note: Opening hours, product ranges and prices vary from shop to shop.

(Sources: Kiyoken official website, "The History of Kiyoken" and "All About Kiyoken's Shumai"; Consumer Affairs Agency, "Food Allergy Labeling")