Saba Zushi: A Kyoto Feast Carried Along the Mackerel Road

Saba zushi is a sushi representative of Kyoto, in which vinegar cured mackerel is pressed over vinegared rice into a bar shape. Far from the sea, Kyoto received salted mackerel caught in Wakasa Bay and carried along the route known as the Mackerel Road. By the time it reached the capital the salt had settled just right, and sushi made from this fish took root as a feast for festivals and special days.

Highlights

• Rich, thick mackerel pairs superbly with mellow vinegared rice
• Some shops wrap it in kelp for an even deeper savory taste
• A single bar is sliced to share, striking and festive in appearance

Enjoying the Seasons

From old times Kyoto households made saba zushi for festivals and seasonal events. It is especially cherished around the autumn festival season, and continues today as a dish that graces the table on special days.

Access and Basic Information

• Area: Gion has a long established shop said to date to the late 18th century, and famous shops also dot the area around Demachiyanagi at the end of the Mackerel Road.
• Access: for Gion, from Keihan Gion Shijo Station; for the Demachiyanagi shops, within walking distance of Demachiyanagi Station on the Eizan and Keihan lines.
• Budget guide: a whole bar of a long established shops saba sushi (about two servings) runs roughly in the six thousand yen range, with a single serving around three thousand yen, varying by shop.
• Format: eat in, or take a whole bar home as a popular souvenir.

Practical Travel Notes

• Pressed sushi wrapped in kelp keeps relatively well and suits souvenirs. Takeout is meant to be eaten the same day, so buy it to fit your schedule.
• Popular shops can sell out during festival and holiday seasons. To be sure of getting one, a reservation or an early visit is reassuring.
• A whole bar is just right to slice and share among several people, and savoring it slowly at your lodging is also nice.
• The degree of curing and the use of kelp vary by shop, giving each its own character.
• Demachiyanagi is near Shimogamo Shrine and the Kamogawa Delta, so buying saba zushi and enjoying it on the riverbank is a very Kyoto way to relish it.

A Quick Tip

The degree of curing varies by shop. Comparing a few and finding your favorite bar is a pleasant way to enjoy it.

Practical Information for Your Visit

• Izuu main shop opening hours: 11:00-22:00 (orders taken until 21:30); on Sundays and public holidays until 21:00 (orders until 20:30)
• Izuu main shop closing day: Tuesdays (open on public holidays and festival days)
• Izuu main shop address and access: 367 Kiyomoto-cho, Yasaka-Shinchi, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto City (telephone 075-561-0751). It is within walking distance of Keihan Gion-Shijo Station, and as it stands in a Gion alley, public transport is the way to go
• Izuu prices: Saba-zushi (pressed mackerel sushi) 3,240 yen per serving, or 6,480 yen for a whole roll. In the shop, from 2,200 yen for four pieces. Takeaway pressed sushi, rolled sushi and assortments range from 1,728 yen to 25,056 yen
• Izuu at Daimaru Kyoto: 10:00-20:00 (the eat-in corner is open 10:00-14:00 and 15:00-19:30). Closing days follow those of the Daimaru Kyoto store. It is easy to reach from Shijo-dori, making it handy on rainy days or when you are carrying a lot
• Masugata-ya opening hours and closing day: 10:00-15:00 (or until sold out), closed Wednesdays
• Masugata-ya address and payment: 179 Futagami-cho, Masugata-dori Demachi Nishi-iru, Kamigyo-ku, Kyoto City (telephone 075-231-4209). Payment is by cash or PayPay only
• Do you need to book?: For takeaway from Izuu, if you are carrying it a long way or ordering several rolls, letting them know in advance means they can prepare it to suit the time you plan to eat. Masugata-ya is a small eatery with few seats, so expect to wait at busy times
• Avoiding the crowds: At Masugata-ya, aim for the morning just after opening. During festivals, holiday seasons and the autumn festival period, demand for saba-zushi rises across the board and shops can sell out early
• Takeaway: Both offer takeaway. As it is pressed sushi it holds its shape well, making it a good choice to slice and eat back at your accommodation
• Budget guide: From the 1,000-2,000 yen range for a set meal at an eatery, or the 6,000 yen range for a whole roll from a long-established shop
• In rainy weather: Both are indoors, so rain is no problem. If you were planning to eat at the Kamogawa Delta near Demachiyanagi, plan to take it back to your accommodation on wet days
• Strollers and wheelchairs: The Demachi Masugata shopping street is a flat, arcaded street that is easy to move along, though individual shops have narrow frontages and may have steps. The Gion area is a succession of stone-paved streets and narrow alleys
• Combine your visit with: From Demachiyanagi, Shimogamo Shrine and the Kamogawa Delta are within walking distance

Sources of Information

Izuu's opening hours, closing days, address, telephone number, saba-zushi prices and storage advice for takeaway were confirmed on the 'Dining In' and 'Sushi Gifts' pages of Izuu's official website. Masugata-ya's opening hours, closing day, address, telephone number and payment methods come from the shop introduction page on the official website of the Demachi Masugata shopping street. The year in which the Sabakaidoguchi stone monument was erected and its inscription 'Kore yori Rakuchu' (from here, within the capital), and the saying 'Kyo wa toote mo juhachi-ri' (Kyoto is far, but only 18 ri away), draw on historic site guides around Demachiyanagi and local materials from the Wakasa and Obama side. Prices, opening hours and closing days are subject to change, so please check official sources before you set out.