Kumano Kodo Nakahechi and Kumano Hongu Taisha Course

The Kumano Kodo is a pilgrimage route walked with prayer by countless people for over a thousand years. The Nakahechi is its most popular path, crossing stone pavements and mossy forests in the mountains toward Kumano Hongu Taisha. This one-day course follows the ancient trail, registered as a World Heritage Site in 2004, at an easy pace. The stretch from Hosshinmon Oji to the grand shrine is known as friendly even for beginners.

Course Route

9:00 Start at Hosshinmon Oji Take a bus up to Hosshinmon Oji from the grand shrine or the Kii-Tanabe area, and begin walking toward the shrine. It is a quiet starting point surrounded by trees, and from here it is about seven kilometers to Kumano Hongu Taisha, a mostly downhill walk of two to three hours.

9:40 Pass Mizunomi Oji One of the small oji shrines dotting the old road. Pilgrims of the past are said to have rested here too, and it once had a teahouse and a small school.

11:00 Enjoy the view at Fushiogami Oji A spot on high ground overlooking the mountains of Kumano. Far off you can faintly see the giant torii of Oyunohara at the grand shrine. A teahouse here makes a good rest stop.

12:00 Short rest at the Sangenjaya site A resting spot at a fork in the old road, where the Nakahechi splits toward the Koya and Kohechi routes. Catch your breath in the shade of the trees.

13:00 Arrive at Kumano Hongu Taisha The central shrine of the three Kumano grand shrines. Climb the stone steps and pay respects at the solemn halls. Visiting the grounds is free of charge.

14:00 To the great torii at Oyunohara Standing where the shrine once stood, this is the largest torii in Japan at about 34 meters. Rising amid the fields, it is an overwhelming sight, about a ten minute walk from the grand shrine.

15:30 Soothe your legs at Yunomine Onsen Ride a bus to this ancient hot spring, said to have opened 1800 years ago and known for its World Heritage Tsuboyu bath. Tsuboyu runs on 30 minute turns per group, with adult entry around 800 yen. The public bath ippanyu is around 400 yen for adults.

Highlights

The stone pavements and mossy trails of the Nakahechi seem to wash the heart clean simply by walking them. The great torii of Oyunohara is a symbol of Kumano. Reaching Hongu Taisha on foot brings a special sense of accomplishment.

Practical Travel Notes

• Access: From Kii-Tanabe Station, Ryujin and Meiko buses run toward the Hongu area. Reaching Hosshinmon Oji usually needs a further connection, and services are limited, so check timetables in advance.
• Choosing your stretch: Hosshinmon Oji to the shrine is about seven kilometers and two to three hours, mostly downhill and beginner friendly. You can adjust distance using bus stops to match your fitness.
• Admission guide: Visiting Kumano Hongu Taisha and Oyunohara is free. Tsuboyu at Yunomine Onsen is around 800 yen for adults, and the public bath around 400 yen.
• Gear: Mountain paths can be slippery in places, so trekking shoes are recommended. Prepare drinks and light food in advance. Some stretches have few restrooms or shops.
• Connectivity: Some stretches of the old road have weak mobile reception. Keeping a paper map and bus times as backup is reassuring.
• Stamps: Signposts and stamp points along the Nakahechi let you collect a record of your journey.

A Quick Tip

Some stretches of the old road have weak mobile phone reception. Check the timetables and plan with time to spare for peace of mind. Bring heat protection in summer and warm layers in winter. Admission and transport costs can change, so plan using these figures as a rough guide.

Practical Information for Your Visit

• Section to walk and time required: From Hosshinmon-oji to Kumano Hongu Taisha is about 7.5 kilometres, taking 3 to 4.5 hours at a standard pace. It is mostly downhill and suitable for beginners, but once you add photo stops and breaks it becomes a half-day outing
• Access (by bus): From Kii-Tanabe Station, take the Ryujin Bus Kumano Hongu Line to Hongu Taisha-mae, about 2 hours. From Hongu Taisha-mae you transfer to the same line to reach Hosshinmon-oji. From the Shingu Station side, Meiko Bus runs services to Hongu Taisha-mae and Hosshinmon-oji. Services on both are limited, so checking the timetable in advance is essential
• Kumano Hongu Taisha: Open for worship from 8:00 to 17:00, and admission for worship is free
• Strollers and wheelchairs: Kumano Hongu Taisha has a dedicated route for wheelchair users, and staff at the shrine office can guide you if you ask. However, the mountain paths of the old pilgrimage route cannot be walked with a stroller or wheelchair. A realistic plan is to travel by bus and visit only Hongu Taisha and Oyunohara
• Yunomine Onsen Tsuboyu: 800 yen for adults, 400 yen for children under 12. Open 6:00-21:00 (reception until 20:30), with irregular closing days. Bathing is on a 30-minute rotation system, and Tsuboyu users may take one additional bath in either the Ippan-yu or the Kusuri-yu
• Yunomine Onsen public bathhouse: The Ippan-yu costs 400 yen for adults and 200 yen for children under 12, the Kusuri-yu 600 yen for adults and 300 yen for children under 12, and the family bath 700 yen for adults and 300 yen for children under 12. Shampoo and body soap are provided
• Budget guide: Visiting the shrine is free, and even including the hot spring the cost is around 1,000 yen per person. Bus fares are extra, so it pays to check whether a free-ride pass is available
• In rainy weather: The old route can be walked in the rain, but the stone paving and tree roots become extremely slippery. On days when it is unwise to push on, it is sensible to switch to visiting Hongu Taisha and Oyunohara and then Yunomine Onsen
• Footwear and clothing: Trekking shoes are recommended. Rain gear is essential. In summer bring insect repellent and take precautions against heatstroke; in winter prepare for the cold of the mountain valleys
• Checking for road closures: On the Nakahechi route there are sections that have collapsed in heavy rain and remain closed. In the heavy rain of June 2026 the section from Nejiki-no-sugi to Shiomi-toge was closed, with no detour available. Before setting out, be sure to check the latest road and pilgrimage route information issued by Tanabe City and the tourism association
• Toilets and shops: Depending on the section, toilets and shops are few and far between. Get your drinks and snacks ready before you start walking
• Mobile phone reception: There are sections of the old route where mobile phones have poor reception. It is reassuring to also carry a paper copy of the map and the bus times
• To avoid the crowds: Numbers of walkers increase on weekends in spring and autumn. If you take the first bus of the day to Hosshinmon-oji and start walking in the morning, it is quieter
• Stamps: There are stamping stations at key points along the Nakahechi route, and collecting them is an enjoyable way to record your journey

Information Sources

The distance from Hosshinmon-oji to Kumano Hongu Taisha (about 7.5 kilometres) and the time required (3 to 4.5 hours), the oji shrines passed along the way, and the fact that Hosshinmon-oji is regarded as the entrance to the sacred precinct of Hongu Taisha are based on the model plan published by the Tanabe City Kumano Tourism Bureau. The worship hours of Kumano Hongu Taisha and the information on the dedicated wheelchair route come from the shrine's official website. The fees, opening hours, 30-minute rotation system, treatment of additional bathing and the provision of amenities for Yunomine Onsen Tsuboyu and the public bathhouse are taken from the facility information published by the Kumano Hongu Tourism Association. The facts that the great torii gate at Oyunohara, built in 2000 (Heisei 12), is Japan's tallest torii at 33.9 metres high and 42 metres wide, and the background to the shrine buildings being washed away in the great flood of 1889 (Meiji 22) and the Kami-yonsha being moved to their present site, are based on the Kumano Hongu Tourism Association and the published history of the shrine. The bus service sections are based on the route information for the Kumano Hongu area from Ryujin Bus and Meiko Bus, and the road closure information on the pilgrimage route information from Tanabe City and the Kumano Hongu Tourism Association. Conditions on the old route, bus times and fares are subject to change, so please check official information before you set out.