Keichan, the Sizzling Miso Chicken of Hida and Gujo

Keichan is a local dish handed down in the Okumino and southern Hida areas of Gifu, including Gujo and Gero. Bite-sized pieces of chicken are tossed with cabbage and bean sprouts in a special miso-based sauce, then grilled boldly on an iron plate or a Genghis Khan pan. The savory aroma of miso pairs superbly with rice, and the simple yet never-tiring flavor is its charm.

Highlights

What makes keichan fun is that the seasoning varies widely by region, household, and shop. In Gujo and Gero the miso sauce is widely loved, while some shops offer soy-sauce or salt versions. The dish is said to have begun with hens that no longer laid eggs being served on special days such as Obon and New Year, giving it the warmth of a dish grown from the family table.

Enjoying the Seasons

Grilled noisily around an iron plate, keichan is perfect for gatherings in the cold season, warming body and heart when eaten piping hot. In summer it is popular to finish off by adding udon or fried noodles after the meat is cooked. Packs of pre-seasoned meat are sold at souvenir shops too, so you can happily recreate the taste of your trip at home.

Access and Basic Information

Keichan shops are scattered mainly around the castle town of Gujo-Hachiman and the hot-spring district of Gero. You can enjoy it at restaurants near Gujo-Hachiman Station on the Nagaragawa Railway or in the spa town, while roadside stations and souvenir shops offer plenty of takeaway packs. From Nagoya it is about an hour and a half by car via the Tokai-Hokuriku Expressway to the Gujo-Hachiman interchange, and Gero Onsen is roughly an hour and a half by the JR limited express Hida. Set meals and single plates start from around a thousand yen, making it an easy dish to work into a sightseeing meal.

Practical Travel Notes

Keichan was originally a dinner staple, and local eateries and pubs bustle with it at night. If you want to soak up the local atmosphere, aim for evening onward. Many are small shops with limited seating, so calling ahead at dinnertime is reassuring. The miso sauce spatters easily on the iron plate, so clothes you do not mind getting a little dirty let you enjoy it freely. To round out the meal, Okumino curry from the same Gujo area, or Hida beef and hoba miso from the Gero and Hida areas, all pair well. Combining it with the summer Gujo Odori dance or a hot-spring tour of Gero lets you enjoy both food and sightseeing.

A Quick Tip

Once it is grilled, the local way is to finish off by mixing rice or udon into the leftover sauce and vegetables. That way you can enjoy every bit of the rich miso flavor. Some shops lend aprons, so grill boldly and dig in.