Kotohira-gu (Konpira-san) — The Sacred Sea Shrine at the Top of 785 Stone Steps

Kotohira-gu, popularly known as Konpira-san, sits on Mount Zozu in Kotohira-cho, Nakatado District, Kagawa, and is the head shrine of more than six hundred Kotohira and Kompira shrines across Japan. Its enshrined deity Omononushi-no-Kami is revered as a god of farming, industry, medicine, and seafaring, and Emperor Sutoku is enshrined here as well. Faith among sailors and fishermen has always been especially strong, and since the Edo era people have said that everyone should make the Konpira pilgrimage once in a lifetime, making it a foremost sacred site of Shikoku. This article takes up Kotohira-gu as a representative of the power spots of Kagawa Prefecture.

Highlights

Climbing 785 stone steps brings you to the main shrine, and a total of 1,368 steps leads on to the inner shrine, Izutama Jinja. The approach is lined with souvenir shops and inns, and the sight of the Gonin Byakusho selling candy is a tradition carried down from the Edo era. From the main shrine a grand view opens over the Sanuki Plain and the Seto Inland Sea. The Asahi-sha is the most imposing building on the Konpira approach, and the fineness of its carving is not to be missed. The treasure house and study halls hold many cultural properties, and works such as the wall paintings of Maruyama Okyo and the votive plaques offered by sailors are handed down here.

Enjoying the Seasons

In spring, from April into May, cherry blossoms and azaleas bloom along the approach, making the stone steps all the more colorful. Summer brings hydrangeas to the grounds. Autumn forms a beautiful panorama of colored leaves and the golden rice fields of the Sanuki Plain. On January 10 the Hatsu-Konpira festival of winter draws crowds, and the approach fills with worshippers seeking good-luck charms.

Access and Basic Information

About a 15-minute walk from JR Kotohira Station, or about 45 minutes from Takamatsu Station on the JR Dosan Line. Kotoden Kotohira Station on the Kotoden Kotohira Line is also close to the approach and convenient. It takes about 30 to 40 minutes to reach the main shrine at 785 steps. A palanquin carrying service, for a fee, is available. The main shrine gates generally open from early morning to evening, but the hours for prayers and for the amulet office differ by season, so it is reassuring to check the official site in advance. The Kotohira area has ample inns and hot-spring facilities.

Practical Travel Notes

• The steps are a long haul, 785 to the main shrine and 1,368 in all to the inner shrine. Plan with time and stamina to spare
• Teahouses and benches for a rest line the approach partway up, and resting often without overdoing it is the safe way
• A palanquin carrying service, for a fee, is available partway and helps those for whom the steps are hard
• The steps grow slippery on rainy days and in the season of fallen leaves. Comfortable shoes and a backpack that frees both hands are recommended
• The approach is lined with Sanuki udon shops and souvenir stores, a pleasure to visit before or after worship
• Viewing hours and closed days for the treasure house and other sites can change, so check in advance if you have a goal in mind
• In summer bring water and a hat against heat, and in winter dress for the chill at the summit

A Quick Tip

The sense of achievement on reaching the top of the 785 steps is something special. Those confident in their stamina should try for the inner shrine at 1,368 steps. Going up and down amounts to a fair workout, so light athletic shoes and staying hydrated are essential. Do not overdo it, go at your own pace, and enjoy the views and the charm of the approach along the way.

📚 Sources

Opening hours of the main shrine, prayer and amulet reception, and viewing of the treasure house and study hall for Kotohiragu are available on the official Kotohiragu website. For the Gonin Byakusho candy sellers and the palanquin-carrying service on the approach, the public information of Kotohira Town and the Kagawa prefectural tourism association is useful. The number of steps and highlights are also explained on the on-site information boards. Fees, hours, and access may change, so please confirm the latest details on official sources before you go.

Visitor Checklist

• Time needed: About two to three hours round trip to the main shrine, or roughly half a day including the inner shrine.
• What to bring: Long flights of stone steps continue, 785 to the main shrine and 1,368 to the inner shrine. Wear comfortable shoes, bring a backpack that keeps your hands free, and carry water.
• Suggested route: Pass the souvenir shops on the approach to Asahisha, reach the main shrine for views of the Sanuki Plain and Seto Inland Sea, then continue to the inner shrine (Izutama Shrine) if your stamina allows.
• Rest: Take frequent breaks at the teahouses and benches along the approach and keep an easy pace.