Iwakuni Zushi: Where to Eat, Prices & Hours (Yamaguchi)

Iwakuni zushi is a pressed sushi handed down in the castle town of Iwakuni, famed for the Kintaikyo Bridge. Layers of vinegared rice and toppings are stacked in a large wooden frame, pressed firm with weights, then cut and served as a celebratory dish. It is said to originate from a preserved food prepared for battle by Kikkawa Hiroie, the first lord of the Iwakuni domain, and it is also known as "tonosama zushi" (the lord's sushi).

Highlights

Iwakuni's famous lotus root, shiitake mushrooms, shredded egg, denbu (seasoned fish flakes), and greens such as garland chrysanthemum form the layers, and the cross-section looks like a brocade picture. Its appeal lies in the boldness of making several servings at once and the beauty of its colors. Watching the wooden frame lifted away and the sushi cut into individual portions is one of its charms.

Seasonal Enjoyment

It can be enjoyed year-round, but the flavor is especially fine from autumn to winter when local lotus root is in season. Indispensable for festive gatherings, it also appears at cherry-blossom viewings and festivals.

Access and Basic Information

From JR Iwakuni Station, it is about twenty minutes by bus to the Kintaikyo Bridge. It can be tasted at eateries and souvenir shops around the bridge. Eateries across the bridge sometimes serve it as part of a set meal of local cuisine.

A Little Advice

Iwakuni lotus root has many holes and is considered auspicious. Search out its crisp texture as you eat. Enjoying it together with a visit to the Kintaikyo Bridge deepens the charm of the castle town.

Practical Travel Notes

Iwakuni zushi is typically enjoyed at eateries around the Kintaikyo Bridge, served as a single portion or set meal, and sometimes sold in a folded box as a souvenir. Lotus root is an Iwakuni specialty, and because it has many holes it is considered an auspicious food said to let one "see the way ahead," making it the star that colors the sushi's cross-section. A separate crossing fee applies to the Kintaikyo Bridge, and eateries serving local cuisine are scattered nearby. As a festive dish it is traditionally made in a large wooden frame, so when eaten at a shop it is generally served already cut into individual portions. On weekends in peak tourist season it can be crowded, so timing lunch a little off-peak lets you enjoy it at leisure.

Practical Information for Your Visit

• Main areas where it is handed down: The whole prefecture, and especially the Iwakuni area. Rice, fish, egg, shiitake mushrooms and lotus root are layered and pressed together (Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries, "Our Local Cuisine").
• Where to eat it: It is served at restaurants and inns in Iwakuni City, especially around the Kintaikyo Bridge, and takeaway versions are also available.
• Public facility worth a stop: The Iwakuni City tourist exchange center "Honke Matsugane" (1-7-3 Iwakuni, Iwakuni City) / 9:00-17:00 (until 18:00 from April to August), open all year round, admission free of charge. You can sample local sake and taste local specialties such as Iwakuni lotus root (for a fee).
• Access: About 20 minutes by bus from JR Iwakuni Station, then about a 5-minute walk from the "Kintaikyo" bus stop.
• Best season: Iwakuni lotus root, one of the ingredients, is harvested from August to April counting both early and late varieties, with shipments peaking around the New Year period.

Note: Opening hours and prices at individual shops vary from store to store.

(Sources: Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries "Our Local Cuisine: Iwakuni-zushi, Yamaguchi Prefecture"; Yamaguchi Prefecture official tourism website "Oidemase Yamaguchi e," Honke Matsugane; Iwakuni Tourism Promotion Division official website; Buchiuma! Yamaguchi.net "Iwakuni lotus root")

Information Sources

This article is compiled from Yamaguchi Prefecture tourism information and information published by each shop. Prices, menus and seasons may change, so please check the official information of each shop for details.

Sightseeing Checklist

• Budget guide: From around 1,000 yen per serving or box
• Where to eat it: Local cuisine restaurants and sushi restaurants around Iwakuni and the Kintaikyo Bridge
• Best time of day: Mainly at lunchtime. A feast for special occasions
• Avoiding the crowds: Popular restaurants get busy at lunchtime, so shift your timing
• Combine your visit with: Iwakuni lotus root, the Kintaikyo Bridge, Iwakuni Castle, Shirohebi Shrine