Kunozan Toshogu — The First Mausoleum of Ieyasu on the Cliffs of Nihondaira

Kunozan Toshogu, perched on a cliff above Suruga Bay on the Nihondaira plateau of Shizuoka City, is the first mausoleum built for Tokugawa Ieyasu, the founder of the Edo shogunate — constructed in 1617, the year after his death, before his remains were transferred to Nikko. As a consequence, it preserves the original artistic vision for Ieyasu's deification with a freshness and intimacy that the more famous Nikko Toshogu, though grander in scale, cannot quite match.

Highlights

The main shrine buildings, designated National Treasures, display the characteristic Toshogu architectural style at its most concentrated: rich lacquer in red, black, and gold; intricate carved panels depicting auspicious animals, plants, and mythological scenes; and gilt metalwork of extraordinary craftsmanship. The total composition, seen from the main approach staircase climbing steeply from the sea, presents a vision of sanctified power that reflects the Tokugawa's self-conscious identification with divine authority.

The approach itself is remarkable: 1,159 stone steps ascend the Nihondaira cliff from the harbor, or visitors may take a ropeway from Nihondaira Plateau that provides sweeping views of Mt. Fuji and Suruga Bay simultaneously. The ropeway approach is genuinely thrilling — Fuji visible across the bay in its full symmetrical perfection, and the shrine suddenly appearing above the forested cliff.

The treasure house contains an exceptional collection of artifacts associated with Ieyasu, including his campaign gear, weapons, and personal effects.

Getting There & Tips

From Shizuoka Station, bus to Nihondaira Plateau (approximately 40 minutes), then ropeway to the shrine. Alternatively, climb the 1,159 steps from the harbor (Kunozan port).

Best Time to Visit

Autumn for clear Fuji views. Spring for cherry blossoms on the approach. The site is beautiful year-round on clear days.