Hoshinooka Onsen: Hot Spring Guide, Prices & Access

This is a hot spring that rises in Hoshioka, Matsuyama City, at the foot of Mount Hoshioka, which was an old battlefield at the end of the Kamakura period. The alkaline simple spring, pumped up from 1,000 meters underground, is colorless and clear with a light, smooth feel on the skin. Three buildings stand side by side — the "Daiyokujo" (great public bath), "Senyukan" and "Spa Hoshinooka" — and since each has different fees and hours, choosing the one that suits your purpose is the way to use this hot spring.

The Battle of Hoshinooka, and Why the Hot Spring Came to Be

Hoshioka is an old battlefield that touched off the upheaval of the Northern and Southern Courts. In 1333 (Genko 3), Hojo Tokinao, head of the Nagato Tandai, advanced his troops to strike the imperial loyalist forces of Iyo, landed at Mizuizu and occupied Hoshinooka Castle. On March 12, the allied forces of Doi Michimasu, Tokuno Michitsuna, Kutsuna Shigekiyo and Ohori Yasuchika began their attack, and the Kume area became the scene of fierce fighting. The Tandai's soldiers suffered a defeat close to annihilation, and Tokinao is said to have fled with nothing but the clothes on his back, abandoning horse saddles and provisions of rice. This Battle of Hoshinooka stirred warriors in many regions and is held to have been a major factor leading to the Kenmu Restoration.

The hot spring was drilled 630 years after that. Goto Nobumasa, an entrepreneur born into a sake-brewing family in Kume village who served as village councilor and village head, received the surplus machinery in 1941 (Showa 16) when the drilling of the new spring at Dogo Onsen was completed, and struck a hot spring at 137 Minami-Kume. This was the first step of the Kume hot spring district. Having succeeded in one drilling after another from 1962 (Showa 37), Nobumasa drilled at Hoshinooka in December 1963 (Showa 38), with the thought that "if this Hoshinooka, famed as a battlefield of the Northern and Southern Courts period, should prosper as a hot spring resort, it would console and memorialize the spirits of the brave warriors of old." That is today's Hoshinooka Onsen.

The Yakushi-do hall of Unmon-ji, behind the hot spring, is said to have been founded in the Enkyu era (1073), and the Hoshioka Yakushi-do, its inner sanctuary, stands at the summit of Mount Hoshioka. The nearby Tatsuoka Tenmangu is a shrine that received a division of the spirit from Kitano Tenmangu, and a monument stands there commemorating a stone on which Sugawara no Michizane is said to have sat. Within walking distance after your bath, this much history lies layered together.

Highlights

Beyond the large main bath, there are many kinds of pools including a carbonated spring, a source-water bath and a herbal bath, giving the feel of a mini bath tour. The gentle alkaline water is kind to the skin and slowly unwinds everyday fatigue. With the Senyukan main building and its open-air bath, family baths and a dining area, one can spend the time however one likes.

How to Choose Among the Three Buildings

The "Hoshinooka Onsen Daiyokujo" is an old-fashioned public bathhouse that dates its founding to 1959 (Showa 34); it is open from 5:30 in the morning until late at night, and local people gather here first thing in the morning. "Senyukan" is the main building, equipped with an open-air bath, a dining area, banquet rooms and family baths. Among the open-air pools is one of genuine source-flow, using the spring water just as it comes without heating; it is on the lukewarm side, so you can soak slowly. "Spa Hoshinooka" is a building devoted to family baths, including "Kura no Yu," which has four kinds of bath plus a stone sauna.

Enjoying the Seasons

It bustles with locals all year, but in the colder season warming up gently in the carbonated bath is especially popular. With family baths and a dining area, one can happily spend a whole day here.

Access and Basic Information

Get off at "Fukuonji Station" on the Iyotetsu line and walk 10 minutes; by car it is about 15 minutes from the Matsuyama IC and about 20 minutes from the Kawauchi IC. The great public bath runs 750 yen for adults and 250 yen for children (age 4 through sixth grade), with a cheaper "morning bath" rate of 600 yen for entry before 10 a.m. The Senyukan main building is 850 yen for adults (900 yen on Saturdays, Sundays and holidays). It keeps long hours from early morning until late at night and is open year-round, with family baths available around the clock at Senyukan. Prices and hours can change, so checking the official site before your visit is wise.

Practical Travel Notes

With so many kinds of pools, touring them all is the way to go. The lukewarm carbonated bath suits a long soak, so visit on a day when you have time to spare. To avoid crowds, early afternoon outside the busy evening hours is the sweet spot. With a dining area on site, you can easily spend half a day between soaking and a meal.

A Quick Tip

The carbonated bath is lukewarm and suited to a long, relaxed soak. Pausing at the dining area afterward is a nice way to finish. Aiming for the cheaper morning rate lets you enjoy a leisurely bath at a bargain.

Practical Information

• Spring quality: Alkaline simple spring. A colorless, clear water rising from 1,000 meters underground, called the "water of beautiful skin"
• Indications: Nerve pain, muscle pain, joint pain, frozen shoulder, motor paralysis, joint stiffness, bruises, sprains, chronic digestive illness, hemorrhoids, sensitivity to cold, convalescence, recovery from fatigue, health promotion and more
• Source-flow bathing: Among the open-air baths at Senyukan is a tub of genuine source-flow, using the spring water just as it comes without heating. It is on the lukewarm side and suits a long soak. Among the family baths at Senyukan, Room 301 "Yama no Yu" has source-flow water, and Room 310 also has spring water
• Hours of the Daiyokujo: 5:30 in the morning to 23:30 at night (last entry 23:00), open year-round. The inquiries page of the official website also lists 5:00–24:00, so if you plan to go very early or very late, calling (089-905-0103) to confirm is the sure approach
• Admission to the Daiyokujo: Adults 750 yen, children (age 4 through sixth grade) 250 yen. The "morning bath" for entry before 10 a.m. is 600 yen. Coupon books are 7,500 yen for 11 tickets and 22,500 yen for 35 tickets for adults; for those aged 65 and over, 7,000 yen for 11 and 21,000 yen for 35
• Baths at the Daiyokujo: Main bath, rock bath (carbonated bath), bubble bath and jet bath, electric bath, cold mineral bath, cold-water bath, walking bath, walking jet bath, sauna and mist sauna. The building is entirely non-smoking, but there is a smoking room
• Hours of Senyukan: The large bath is open 6:00 to midnight (last entry 23:20), year-round. The family baths are available 24 hours
• Admission to Senyukan: Adults 850 yen (900 yen on Saturdays, Sundays and holidays), children (age 4 through sixth grade) 300 yen. The morning bath (before 10 a.m.) is 700 yen. Coupon books are 8,500 yen for 11 tickets and 25,500 yen for 35 tickets for adults; for those aged 65 and over, 8,000 yen for 11 and 24,000 yen for 35. The admission fee includes the use of a towel
• Baths at Senyukan: Indoors there is a plain hot bath, a carbonated bath, a medicinal bath, a cold mineral bath and a source-water mist sauna. Outdoors there are a walking bath and jet bath, a garden open-air bath (bubble bath and electric bath), a source-water bath, a Shigaraki-ware pot bath, a high-temperature sauna and a cold-water bath
• Private and family baths: Senyukan has 11 rooms in all, available 24 hours. From 4,000 yen for one hour 30 minutes (up to 4 adults; 850 yen extra per person for 5 or more), with extensions from 1,300 yen per 30 minutes, and room-only overnight stays from 10,500 yen per room for two (check-in 17:30, check-out 10:00; overnight guests also use the great bath free of charge). On weekdays from Monday to Friday, 10:00–16:30 is free-time use from 6,400 yen (not available during Obon, the New Year period, public holidays, busy seasons and consecutive holidays). Reservations are taken from two months in advance; Yama no Yu alone is taken by telephone from 8:00 on the morning of the day. At Spa Hoshinooka, family baths are from 3,200 yen for one hour 30 minutes for a room of up to 5 people for a rest, and from 8,900 yen per room for two for an overnight stay
• Barrier-free access: Spa Hoshinooka has a barrier-free family bath with two open-air baths, built so that those uneasy about steps and wheelchair users can use it easily. If the great public bath is difficult for you, consider this option
• Shop: "Hoshi Sakaya," attached to the Daiyokujo, sells fresh vegetables and fruit, prepared foods, freshly baked bread, daily delivery foods and alcoholic drinks. You can do your shopping after your bath
• Meals and banquets: Senyukan has the dining area "Hana Noren" and banquet rooms; lunchtime and evening banquets start from a 4,000 yen Japanese kaiseki. Reservations are made at the Senyukan front desk (089-958-6700)
• Accommodation: Besides room-only stays in the Senyukan family baths, there is a "Star Plan" with two meals at 16,000 yen per person (check-in 15:00, reservation required, taken from three months in advance; 2,000 yen per person for ages 5 through elementary school)
• Parking: 90 spaces at the Daiyokujo and 40 at Senyukan, both free
• Access: Get off at "Fukuonji Station" on the Iyotetsu line and walk 10 minutes. By car it is about 15 minutes from the Matsuyama IC and about 20 minutes from the Kawauchi IC
• To avoid crowds: This is a hot spring that bustles with local visitors from early morning. If you want a leisurely soak, early afternoon on a weekday, outside the busy evening hours, is the calmest time
• Addresses: Hoshinooka Onsen Daiyokujo is at 1-3 Hoshioka, Matsuyama City, Ehime 790-0922 (089-905-0103); Senyukan is at 1-2-16 Hoshioka (089-958-6700); Spa Hoshinooka is at 1-3-3 Hoshioka (089-956-1065)

Sources of Information

The business hours, admission fees, coupon books, composition of the baths, room-by-room family bath prices, and the content of the banquet and accommodation plans, as well as the account of the Battle of Hoshinooka and the drilling of the hot spring by Goto Nobumasa, are based on the individual facility pages and the "Historical Walk" section of the official Hoshinooka Onsen website. The spring quality name, indications, number of parking spaces, walking time from Fukuonji Station, driving times from each interchange, the use of source-flow water and the barrier-free family bath at Spa Hoshinooka were confirmed in the facility information on "Iyokan Net," the official tourism website of Ehime Prefecture. As these may change, please check official information before setting out.

Practical Information for Your Visit

• Spring quality: Alkaline simple spring. Colourless, transparent water welling up from 1,000 m underground, known as a "beautifying bath"
• Indications: Neuralgia, muscle pain, joint pain, frozen shoulder, motor paralysis, joint stiffness, bruises, sprains, chronic digestive complaints, haemorrhoids, sensitivity to cold, convalescence, recovery from fatigue, general health promotion and more
• Free-flowing source water: The open-air bath at Sento-kan has a tub filled with unheated water straight from the source. It is on the cool side, so it suits a long soak. Among Sento-kan's family baths, Room 301 "Yama-no-Yu" has a free-flowing source bath, and Room 310 also has source water
• Large bath opening hours: 5:30 in the morning to 23:30 at night (last admission 23:00), open year-round. Note that the enquiries page of the official website also gives 5:00 to 24:00, so if you plan to visit very early or very late, it is safest to confirm by phone (089-905-0103)
• Large bath admission: 750 yen for adults, 250 yen for children (age 4 to 6th grade). The "morning bath" for those entering before 10:00 is 600 yen. Coupon books for adults are 7,500 yen for 11 tickets and 22,500 yen for 35 tickets; for those aged 65 and over, 7,000 yen for 11 tickets and 21,000 yen for 35 tickets
• Large bath tubs: Main bath, rock bath (carbonated bath), bubble bath and jet bath, electric bath, cold mineral bath, cold-water bath, walking bath, walking jet bath, sauna and mist sauna. The building is entirely non-smoking, but there is a smoking room
• Sento-kan opening hours: Large bath 6:00 to midnight (last admission 23:20), open year-round. The family baths are open 24 hours
• Sento-kan admission: 850 yen for adults (900 yen on weekends and public holidays), 300 yen for children (age 4 to 6th grade). The morning bath (before 10:00) is 700 yen. Coupon books for adults are 8,500 yen for 11 tickets and 25,500 yen for 35 tickets; for those aged 65 and over, 8,000 yen for 11 tickets and 24,000 yen for 35 tickets. Towel use is included in the admission fee
• Sento-kan tubs: Indoors, a plain hot bath, carbonated bath, medicinal bath, cold mineral bath and source-water mist sauna. Outdoors, a walking bath and jet bath, a garden open-air bath (bubble bath and electric bath), a source-water bath, Shigaraki pot baths, a high-temperature sauna and a cold-water bath
• Private and family baths: Sento-kan has 11 rooms in all, available 24 hours. From 4,000 yen for 1 hour 30 minutes (up to 4 adults; 850 yen per extra person from the 5th), extensions from 1,300 yen per 30 minutes, and room-only overnight stays from 10,500 yen for 2 people (check-in 17:30, check-out 10:00; overnight guests also use the large bath free of charge). On weekdays from Monday to Friday, 10:00 to 16:30 is free-time use from 6,400 yen (not available during Obon, the New Year period, public holidays, busy periods or long weekends). Reservations open two months in advance; Yama-no-Yu alone is taken by phone from 8:00 on the day. At Spa Hoshinooka, the family baths are from 3,200 yen for one room for 1 hour 30 minutes (up to 5 people) for a rest visit, and from 8,900 yen for one room for 2 people with an overnight stay
• Barrier-free: Spa Hoshinooka has a barrier-free family bath with two open-air baths, built so that visitors uneasy about steps or using a wheelchair can bathe comfortably. Consider it if the large bath would be difficult
• Shop: Hoshi-Sakaya, attached to the large bath, sells fresh vegetables and fruit, prepared dishes, freshly baked bread, chilled foods and alcoholic drinks, so you can shop after your bath
• Dining and banquets: Sento-kan has the dining room Hana-Noren and banquet rooms, with lunchtime and evening banquet courses of Japanese kaiseki cuisine from 4,000 yen. Reserve at the Sento-kan front desk (089-958-6700)
• Accommodation: Besides room-only stays in Sento-kan's family baths, there is the "Star Plan" with two meals at 16,000 yen per person (check-in 15:00, reservation required, accepted from three months in advance; 2,000 yen per child aged 5 through elementary school)
• Parking: 90 spaces at the large bath and 40 at Sento-kan, both free of charge
• Access: Get off at Fukuonji Station on the Iyotetsu line and walk 10 minutes. By car, about 15 minutes from the Matsuyama IC or about 20 minutes from the Kawauchi IC
• To avoid the crowds: This is a hot spring that fills with local regulars from early morning. For a relaxed soak, early afternoon on a weekday, avoiding the evening rush, is the calmest time
• Location: The Hoshinooka Onsen large bath is at 1-3 Hoshioka, Matsuyama City, Ehime Prefecture 790-0922 (089-905-0103); Sento-kan is at 1-2-16 Hoshioka (089-958-6700); and Spa Hoshinooka is at 1-3-3 Hoshioka (089-956-1065)

Information Sources

The opening hours, bathing fees, coupon books, layout of the baths, room-by-room family bath rates and the details of the banquet and accommodation plans, as well as the account of the Battle of Hoshinooka and the drilling of the hot spring by Goto Nobumasa, are based on the individual facility pages and the "History Walk" section of the official Hoshinooka Onsen website. The spring type, indications, number of parking spaces, walking time from Fukuonji Station, driving times from each interchange, the free-flowing source water, and Spa Hoshinooka's barrier-free family bath were confirmed in the facility information on Iyokan Net, the official tourism website of Ehime Prefecture. Details are subject to change, so please check the official information before you set out.