Shionoha Onsen Yamabato-yu

Shionoha Onsen is a hidden spring welling up in a deep valley of Okuyoshino, further upstream than the Osako dam in Kawakami village, Nara. It is an ancient spring said to have been opened more than a thousand years ago, and Yamabato-yu is its single inn. The thick brown water, rich in iron and carbon dioxide, has a character so striking it is unforgettable once seen.

Highlights

The greatest feature is the unusual tub coated in a thick layer of mineral deposits. Over long years the springs minerals have hardened, and the rim of the bath has grown almost like rock. Because the source water flows through untouched, its color changes on contact with air, and a strong iron scent accompanies a warmth that reaches the core of the body. From the open-air bath you look out on the Osako dam lake and the mountains, a grand view only a hidden spring can offer. The local dishes served in the dining area are also well regarded.

Enjoying the Seasons

Amid the fresh green of spring and the deep green of summer, the rich water and the gorge view come into harmony. In autumn the surrounding foliage reflects on the lake, the most splendid scenery of the year. In winter the snow-viewing open-air bath is exceptional, and the warming, full-bodied water feels truly precious.

Access and Basic Information

The spring is in Shionoha, Kawakami village, Yoshino district, Nara. Public transport is difficult, so coming by car is the basic option. From the Osako dam wall you drive about ten minutes upstream along a mountain road. Hours and closing days for day bathing change with the season, so it is reassuring to check with Yamabato-yu before you go.

A Quick Tip

The mountain road goes on for a while, so allow time when driving and try to arrive early. The rich water warms you deeply but can also make you light-headed, so do not overdo it. The iron can stain towels, so it is best to use one you do not mind getting marked.