Tottori Local Gourmet Guide: Matsuba Crab

Matsuba Crab

The supreme dish nurtured by the winter Sea of Japan. Tottori Prefecture's prized top-grade ingredient "matsuba crab" grips the hearts of visitors with a deep sweetness you can never forget once tasted—I can declare it that confidently—and the overwhelming satisfaction of tightly condensed flesh. The scent of the tide rising the moment you crack the crab shell, the white flesh that crumbles apart when you insert your chopsticks, and the rich umami that spreads gradually on your tongue—matsuba crab is not just a meal but an experience of tasting Tottori's winter itself.

The "tag" permitted only to matsuba crab caught off Tottori is, at the same time as being proof of origin, evidence of an unwavering pride in quality. The luxury of receiving, on the same day, crab just landed at a local fishing port with the dawn, is a privilege only those who travel to the production area can enjoy. The simple umami of boiled crab of course, but also shell-grilled crab roasted savory over charcoal, and sashimi (raw crab) made possible precisely by outstanding freshness—savor the charm of matsuba crab to the fullest in varied ways of eating.

Characteristics

The matsuba crab fishing season opens every year from early November to March of the following year. This period is precisely the seasonal time when Tottori gourmet shines most. Among these, December to January is the peak time when the flesh content reaches its zenith and the fat is outstanding too. That local fishermen unanimously say "only the crab of this period is in a different class" is a phrase you'll agree with once you taste it. If you can choose your dates, by all means aim for Tottori in this period.

At eateries adjacent to the fishing ports, lunch using the first morning's landing is the target. Around Sakaiminato and Karo Port, unpretentious eateries that locals keep frequenting are dotted about, where you can meet "honest deliciousness" that isn't tourist-spot prices. For those who want to keep their budget down, popular eateries serving crab-soup set meals and matsuba crab kakiage tempura are also choices not to be missed. Rustic crab cuisine unique to a fishing town, different again from the gorgeous crab kaiseki of a first-class inn, will surely be deeply engraved in your travel memory.

Access: About 20 minutes by bus from JR Tottori Station, accessible to the Karo Port area. Toward Sakaiminato, about 1 hour by the JR Sakai Line (transfer at Yonago Station). For those who want to hop between multiple fishing ports, using a rental car is by far recommended. The freedom of travel rises dramatically, and the fun of freely searching for local eateries is also born.

Travel tip: On weekends in the crab season, it's not unusual for a long line to form at popular shops. Aiming for the 11 o'clock hour right after opening, or after 2 p.m. when the lunch rush settles, lets you enter relatively smoothly. Because many shops require reservations, consulting your lodging inn or the tourist information center in advance is reassuring. Because popular crab-cuisine shops may fill up with reservations from several weeks ahead, plan your trip early. A take-home styrofoam box can be prepared at many shops, but if flying, check the carry-on size regulations with the airline in advance.

---

Daisen Okowa

At the foot of Tottori Prefecture's symbol, the sacred Mt. Daisen, a rustic and powerful local food passed down over hundreds of years. "Daisen okowa," with mountain vegetables, mushrooms, and free-range chicken plentifully mixed into chewy, springy glutinous rice, is a deeply nourishing dish where the blessings of the mountain spread throughout your mouth the moment you take a single mouthful. It doesn't have the gorgeousness of matsuba crab, but somehow you want to eat it again and again—that nostalgia, resembling the warmth of a hometown, is the greatest charm of Daisen okowa. At the first bite, you'll surely narrow your eyes in spite of yourself, thinking "ah, this is real local food."

At the temple lodgings and local-cuisine restaurants around Mt. Daisen, you can savor okowa carefully steamed by old-fashioned methods, and at the roadside station "Daisen Megumi no Sato" and the like, casual takeout is also possible. Receiving the rustic okowa handmade with heart by the local mothers, in the refreshing air of Mt. Daisen and the clear mountain atmosphere—just that creates more than enough travel memories.

Tips for Eating Around

To enjoy Daisen okowa in its most vivid form, boldly dive into the morning markets around the Daisen approach and the local breakfast culture. There are also many eateries and farm-produce direct-sale shops open from the morning, and the experience of receiving okowa prepared by farmer grandmothers from early morning as breakfast is a real thrill of true travel that doesn't fall short of any famous tourist spot. The morning time of strolling the approach with steaming okowa in hand will become a special scene of the journey.

The best seasons are spring and autumn. In spring (April to May), mountain vegetables (royal fern, bracken, etc.) come into season, the period when the okowa ingredients become richest. In autumn (October to November), fragrant mushrooms such as matsutake and shiitake are added, letting you enjoy a deeper flavor. By all means incorporate an autumn trip enjoying it while driving along with Mt. Daisen's fiery autumn leaves as a standard course of a Tottori trip. The taste of okowa received while gazing at scenery where the mountainsides are dyed red and yellow is exceptional once again.

Access: About 50 minutes by Hinomaru Bus "bound for Daisenji" from JR Yonago Station, get off at the Daisenji bus stop. If by private car, comfortable access too, about 20 minutes from Mizoguchi IC on the Yonago Expressway. Because the roadside station and shops along the approach are fully equipped with parking, visiting by car can be enjoyed more casually.

Travel tip: It's not uncommon for popular shops' okowa to sell out by early afternoon. Visiting in the early-morning hours is better. Because some shops sell vacuum packs for souvenirs, it's also appreciated as a souvenir for family or the workplace. Because the area around Mt. Daisen is high in altitude, it can chill considerably in the morning and evening even in spring and autumn. Be sure to bring a jacket you can throw on, and prepare for the changeability of mountain weather.

---

Sakyu Rakkyo

A one-of-a-kind gem that grows only in the sand of the Tottori Sand Dunes. "Sakyu rakkyo" (dune scallion) is, conversely, made by the seemingly harsh environment of sand to root deeply and powerfully, and is a distinctive gourmet representing Tottori, small in grain yet with a crisp texture and a clean yet deep spiciness condensed in. The texture that bursts with each bite, and the unique aroma that tickles your nose—once you notice that deliciousness, you may no longer be able to go back to the scallions sold at supermarkets.

Sweet-vinegar pickling and salt pickling are standard, but locally, scallions appear on the everyday table as just one ordinary vegetable, made into tempura or stir-fried with pork. At souvenir shops and farm-produce direct-sale shops you can drop by during sand-dune sightseeing, when the harvest season comes, freshly pickled scallions line the storefronts to the brim, and a sweet-sour aroma drifts even outside. Hopping between several shops while enjoying samples—just that greatly enriches your stroll through the dune area. By all means don't hold back; sample repeatedly and find your favorite jar.

The best season is the scallion harvest period of late May to June. Visiting in this period, the scenery of scallion fields spreads where dainty white and pale-purple flowers bloom in profusion in the fields around the dunes, itself becoming a beautiful scene of the journey. Furthermore, freshly harvested raw scallions are a rare item available only in this short seasonal period. Trying the "authentic style" of purchasing raw scallions and pickling them to your taste at home is also one expert way to touch the essence of sakyu rakkyo. It's an understandable story that there are many repeat visitors who come to Tottori every year, thinking "maybe I'll pickle some this year too."

Tips for choosing sakyu rakkyo souvenirs: Choosing those with the "dune-grown" label, not available at ordinary supermarkets, is an important point. At direct-sale shops around the Tottori Sand Dunes and souvenir shops around the "Tottori Sakyu Konami Shokudo," products particular about being dune-grown are abundantly available. The "hana-rakkyo pickles," characterized by high sugar content and gentle sweetness, are well-received even by those who "aren't good with scallions," and are a dish perfect as a gift too.

Access: About 30 minutes by Hinomaru Bus "bound for Sakyu Center" from JR Tottori Station. Because it can be enjoyed as a set with sand-dune sightseeing as is, it can be incorporated effortlessly into a standard course of a Tottori trip. After walking the dunes and feeling the sea breeze, the flow of nibbling freshly pickled scallions at a direct-sale shop is the standard local way to enjoy it.

Travel tip: Many bottled pickled scallions can be stored at room temperature and are convenient to take home. On the other hand, because raw scallions require refrigeration, you need to be careful about purchase timing. Dropping by on the last day of your itinerary is recommended. Sampling repeatedly at multiple shops will surely let you find your favorite type, such as sweet, spicy, or salty. If you call out "please let me sample," locals often kindly explain even the origin and pickling method, and that conversation itself becomes a good memory of the journey.

---

Access and Business Hours

For access to the main gourmet spots within Tottori Prefecture, the basic movement is to use JR Tottori Station and Yonago Station as starting points. However, because there are many areas within the prefecture with limited public-transport service, we strongly recommend using a rental car as the most stress-free way to tour each spot. With a car, touring the fishing port, mountain foot, and dunes in one day is fully possible, and you can conquer the three great specialties of Tottori gourmet in a single trip.

Each shop's business hours and closing days can vary depending on the season and the fishing situation. Be sure to check in advance by web or phone before visiting—that's the iron rule. Especially in the matsuba crab season, popular shops' reservations may fill up from several weeks ahead, so start moving on your trip plan early with room to spare.

On the Tottori Prefecture Tourism Federation's official tourism site "Tottori Tabi no Namajoho," seasonal gourmet information and locally recommended shops are updated from time to time. Bookmarking it at the planning stage lets you build a fulfilling plan based on the latest information. Also, at the tourist information centers within Tottori Station and Yonago Station and around the dunes, staff will casually tell you hidden-gem gourmet information unique to locals. Calling out at the start of your journey may let you meet special information not listed in guidebooks. By all means drop by as your first step.