Kawara Soba: Where to Eat, Prices & Hours (Yamaguchi)

Kawara soba is a unique local dish born in the Kawatana Onsen hot spring area of Shimonoseki. Green tea soba is heaped on a heated roof tile (kawara), topped colorfully with beef, shredded egg, green onion, and nori, and eaten with a warm dipping sauce. It is said to have been devised by an inn at Kawatana Onsen in the 1960s, inspired by a tale of soldiers grilling wild greens and meat on roof tiles during the Satsuma Rebellion.

Highlights

The bottom of the noodles touching the tile grills fragrant and crisp, while the top stays moist, so you can enjoy two textures in a single plate. The green tea soba, kneaded with matcha, is vivid, and the shredded beef and golden egg add color.

Seasonal Enjoyment

Gathering around a piping-hot serving is fine in winter, and the refreshing dipping sauce keeps it popular year-round. A plate after visiting the hot spring town is exceptional. It is a familiar flavor sometimes recreated at home on a hot plate.

Access and Basic Information

Shops said to be the birthplace are scattered within walking distance of JR Kawatana-Onsen Station. Starting with "Kawara Soba Takase," known as the originator, it can be tasted at shops in Kawatana Onsen and has also spread to restaurants across the prefecture.

A Little Advice

Adding lemon and grated daikon with chili to the dipping sauce makes the finish much more refreshing. Once the bottom of the noodles starts to grill, aim for the crisp browned parts to enjoy the change in flavor.

Practical Travel Notes

Kawara soba is often served on a large tile even for a single portion, making it quite filling. Its birthplace is Kawatana Onsen in Toyoura, Shimonoseki, where in 1961 Shinichi Takase of the inn "Takase" is said to have devised it for guests. The standard condiments are chopped green onion, nori, sliced lemon, and grated daikon with chili. You can enjoy the authentic version at shops around Kawatana-Onsen Station, and it is also served at restaurants in Yamaguchi City and central Shimonoseki. A single portion is generally in the range of a thousand-plus yen, and the style of gathering around one tile among several people is also popular. Combined with a hot spring bath, it completes a day of travel unique to Kawatana Onsen.

Practical Information for Your Visit

• The restaurant where it originated: Ganso Kawara Soba Takase Kawatana Minami Honkan (5437 Oaza Kawatana, Toyoura-cho, Shimonoseki City / TEL 083-772-2680) / 11:00-20:00, irregular closing days. The Kawatana Honkan on the same grounds is open 11:00-15:00 on Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays only.
• Access: About 5 minutes by taxi from JR Kawatana Onsen Station. By car, about 44 minutes from the Shimonoseki IC and about 36 minutes from the Ozuki IC.
• To try it in Yamaguchi City: "Kozan," the dining area at the Nishi-no-Kyo Yamaguchi Products Hall "Choshuen" (1-6 Kimachi, Yamaguchi City) / 11:00-14:00 (last order), open all year round. Kawara soba is 1,320 yen for one serving. The products hall is open 8:30-17:00 and stands right beside the five-story pagoda of Rurikoji Temple, a National Treasure.
• Points to note: Takase's opening hours and closing days differ from branch to branch, so please check the official website before you visit.

* Opening hours and prices vary from restaurant to restaurant.

(Sources: Ganso Kawara Soba Takase official website (Kawatana Honkan, Kawatana Minami Honkan, access); Nishi-no-Kyo Yamaguchi Products Hall "Choshuen" official website)

Information Sources

This article is compiled from tourism information for Yamaguchi Prefecture together with information published by each restaurant. Prices, menus and seasons may change, so please check each restaurant's official information for details.

Sightseeing Checklist

• Budget guide: From around 1,000 yen and up per serving
• Where to eat it: Restaurants around the prefecture, mainly in Kawatana Onsen and Shimonoseki
• Best time of day: Both lunch and dinner. Combine it with Kawatana Onsen
• Avoiding the crowds: Popular restaurants get busy at lunchtime, so shift your timing
• Combine it with: Ordering a dried noodle set by mail, Kawatana Onsen, the Tsunoshima Bridge, and Shimonoseki